Marios Schwab's trademark dresses were downplayed for Autumn/Winter 2014. The silhouettes were simpler, and there was less intricate detail, fewer cutouts, sparkles, and strapping details. Even the styling, from the low heels to the slouchy knits, contributed to the more relaxed vibe. This was no bad thing, as it made the dresses feel more like the kind of thing we would wear on a daily basis, rather than something that would hang in a wardrobe waiting patiently for a red carpet moment. But it did mean the show felt very subtle in comparison to previous sparkle-strewn Schwab shows.
Some looks had asymmetric top layers, as if the models had got only halfway through putting on a t-shirt before they hit the runway. There were also surprise hits in the outerwear, including leather biker jackets, a blue silk bomber jacket, and a fluffy 3/4-length edge-to-edge coat.
There were nods to Schwab's trademarks, like the bondage-style strapping he has relied heavily on in previous seasons. Models wore choker collars, some with chains, others fastened to dresses with one long panel running down to the waist. There were also some of the sheer and shimmering red carpet gowns that have drawn celeb fans like Naomie Harris and Amanda Seyfried, this time in shades of inky blue and green chiffon, softer and more diaphanous than ever. Look out also for uneven hems and trains, with lengths of chiffon trailing off to the sides and back of dresses, skirts, and tops.