Walk into any Sephora, Ulta [1], or department or drugstore and you're likely to see hoards of bottles that list a chemical exfoliant as an active ingredient in their formula. Words like alpha hydroxy acid, lactic acid, and glycolic acid [2] can sound intimidating if you're unfamiliar, but here's why you shouldn't be.
To help you decide whether to work them into your routine, we consulted board-certified dermatologist Dhaval Bhanusali [3], MD, to explain and demystify the common ingredients. Ahead, he breaks down everything you need to know about chemical exfoliators — including what they are and how they can transform your skin.
What Is Exfoliation?
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells on the skin. There are two methods in which you can do this: the first is through physical scrubs, which typically contain tiny particles to manually slough off flakes; the second is through chemical exfoliants that frequently come in liquid forms.
How can you tell? If you see the word "acid" — like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and polyhydroxy acid — listed on a product, chances are it's a chemical exfoliant.
How Do Chemical Exfoliants Work?
Chemical exfoliants loosen the bonds between cells, ridding your skin of dead or loose ones. "The ingredients remove debris from clogged pores and encourage increased cell turnover, which means you'll have fresh skin at the surface," Dr. Bhanusali said. This will result in fewer breakouts and a more even complexion.
Should You Use a Chemical Exfoliant?
Dr. Bhanusali is a fan of the ingredients and recommends them to almost all of his patients, depending on their individual needs.
"If they have a problem with acne, I like beta hydroxy acids (BHAS) like salicylic acid," he said. "Glycolic acid is great for hyperpigmentation and rejuvenation." If you have oily skin, you can use chemical exfoliants three to four times a week, while those with sensitive skin should limit use to two or three times weekly. Dr. Bhanusali advises people with sensitive skin go for polyhydroxy acids. If you work out a lot, he recommends you treat your skin to a lactic acid or salicylic-acid-spiked body wash.
If you're eager to try out chemical exfoliants for yourself, check out his product picks ahead.
Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Fighting Facial Cleanser With Salicylic Acid
Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Fighting Facial Cleanser With Salicylic Acid [4] ($16)
Neostrata PHA Facial Cleanser Gel With Polyhydroxy Acid
Neostrata PHA Facial Cleanser Gel With Polyhydroxy Acid [5] ($36)
SLMD Salicylic Acid Body Wash
SLMD Salicylic Acid Body Wash [6] ($35)