I'm a true child of the early 2000s [1]. In the early aughts, you would have 100 percent found me sporting all the most bitchin' trends [2], from a bedazzled flip phone to micro denim skirts to those Steve Madden platform sandals [3]. And of course, who could forget that most unholy pairing that defined the early 2000s: low-rise jeans [4] and a crop top.
And like any good Britney [5]- and Xtina-loving tween [6], I was desperate for a belly button [7] ring. You know the kind: that big silver bar adorned with translucent balls on either end (I would have chosen blue). Predictably, I was laughed out of the room when I casually brought up the topic of a belly-button piercing [8] to my parents. ("Keep dreamin', sweetie" were the exact words.) So for the entirety of 2003 [9], I forlornly walked past the windows of my local Limited Too, watching all the cool girls showing off their newly bejeweled navels, silently cursing my mother for dashing all of my dreams.
Of course, like anything you just had to have as a teenager, the idea fell off my radar as I got older — until now. Why, you ask, would I want to resurrect this relic of my youth as I enter my early 30s? Well, for one thing, piercings [10] have gotten way more chic. No longer are we talking about big, chunky bars with screw-on balls — dainty [11] is now the name of the game for piercings, from ears to, yes, the navel. Plus, when you have friends who are professional piercers, it's easy to keep up with the latest jewellery trends [12].
So once the idea of a belly-button piercing got lodged in my brain, I turned to my friend Joshua David Harris [13], a piercer at 108 Studios [14], to take me through the process. Here's what you need to know.
How to Choose Your Piercer
Before you get any holes in your body, make sure you're feeling good about your piercer. Harris said to look for a piercer who will take the time with you, answer your questions, and make you feel comfortable above all else. "Trust your gut," he said. "If you go into a shop and get weird vibes, go somewhere else. You don't have to do it just because you are there. Your body, your choice."
How Much Does a Navel Piercing Cost?
Every shop is different, but you can usually expect to pay a piercing service fee plus the cost of jewellery. The material of the piercing jewellery is really what's going to determine the price: for instance, solid-gold barbells can be significantly more expensive than surgical steel or other metals. To get an idea of what you're looking at, 108 Studios charges [15] $45 for the first hole, a simple solid-gold hoop starts at $70, and solid-gold barbells start at $220.
What to Expect at Your Appointment
First, your piercer will take a look at your navel and talk to you about the best route in terms of jewellery and placement. Things like the shape of your navel — meaning an innie or an outie, or even the amount of skin you have to work with — will guide the type of jewellery you should be pierced with. Harris also said there are some people who might want to reconsider getting their belly button pierced at all, but it's something you can talk about at your appointment. "It's a case-by-case basis," he said. "I'd rather not do it if I think it's going to cause you problems or your body will just end up rejecting it."
In terms of what jewellery works best for the navel area, Harris recommend starting with a curved barbell for easier healing. "You want some breathing room to allow for swelling in a new piercing." Once it's healed and feeling good, he said a small hoop can be swapped in to fit "nice and snug." You also want to look at what the jewellery is made of — you should only get pierced with a hypoallergenic material, like gold, surgical steel, or titanium. Harris, for example, only uses 18K and 14K yellow gold, 14K rose gold, and 14K white gold. Ask your piercer if you aren't sure what the jewellery is made of.
Once you've landed on the jewellery, it's time to get down to business. Your piercer will look at where your skin naturally falls when you're comfortably standing and make a tiny mark where the piercing will sit. Don't be shy about saying something if you don't like the placement. It's better speak up now rather than after the piercing is done.
When you're ready to go, your piercer will have you lie down on your back and place a clamp around your navel to keep everything lined up and set up. It feels a little tight but shouldn't hurt.
If you are like me and got your first ear piercing at a young age at your local Claire's or mall kiosk, you probably have a horror story about the piercing gun. I personally had a gun get stuck midpiercing (*shivers*). The more sophisticated piercers of today use a hollow needle, done by hand. "The needle seems a little scary, but it's healthier on the tissue and allows us to get more precise with the piercing," Harris said. "It's also used to connect to the jewellery and guide it in. The gun pierces you with the jewellery by forcing it through the tissue."
What to Wear to Your Piercing Appointment
The question of what to wear to your appointment [16] might seem obvious, but it's easily overlooked. Harris said to wear "something comfortable and not too tight. Pants or shorts that do not lay across your navel and a shirt are best. Anything with easy access to that area. Dresses or onesies are a little trickier for obvious reasons." I personally wore a cropped tee and the lowest-waist jeans I own (which are still pretty high).
How Painful Is a Belly-Button Piercing?
I can really only speak for myself, but I'd say it was about a five out of 10. Getting a needle pushed through your skin is never going to be pleasant, but it wasn't nearly as painful as some of the piercings I've gotten in the thicker cartilage of my ears. No tears streamed down my face, but Harris did have to remind me to unclench my fists and breathe a few times. The most uncomfortable part was actually the few seconds it took to thread the piece of jewellery through the hollow needle.
What Is the Aftercare For a Naval Piercing?
Harris explained that aftercare is actually quite easy for a new belly button piercing. He recommended cleaning it twice daily with some fragrance-free soap and water (I always go for Dr. Bronner's Unscented Baby Soap [17]). Do your best to leave it alone, and don't overclean or touch it with dirty hands. Until it's fully healed, you want to be careful of snagging it on a towel or rubbing it with your clothes (tread lightly around high-waisted jeans!). "Try not to do anything that has you laying on it or putting a lot of pressure on it," Harris said. "Be careful with those loofahs in the shower, too."
Since I was eager to get back to my regular yoga practice, I also asked Harris how long I should wait before working out. Thankfully, he said, "I would say if it's comfortable enough for you to work out, then it should be OK. Just be mindful of it."
One common concern is getting "the bump" near your navel area during the healing process. The main thing to know: don't freak out. "The bumps are usually temporary, cosmetic, and will eventually clear up with a little extra care and caution," Harris said. "Normally, I have clients start with a daily hot compress to the area, which helps draw out the irritation and shrink the bumps down. If that's not working, sometimes changing up the jewellery you have in can help." Before taking drastic steps like taking out the jewellery yourself, let your piercer take a look and give you a plan of action.
Harris said that oftentimes, irritation is confused with infection. "More often than not, piercings become irritated, not infected," he said. "If you are having concerns about what is happening with your piercing, it's always best to go see your piercer in person so they see exactly what is going on. Everything is fixable, so there's nothing to stress about if your piercing gets irritated." Your piercer can let you know if you really do have an infection and advise when to see a doctor.
How Long Does a New Navel Piercing Take to Heal?
Keep in mind that everyone heals differently, and some people's bodies react differently to a piercing than others. Generally, the healing process takes between three and six months, but it could take longer. "I tell clients to wait a minimum of three months before changing out the jewellery, but waiting longer is always better," Harris said. "When you want to change it out, check in with your piercer to see if it's actually ready. Don't get impatient and change it too soon! It could cause problems you won't want to deal with in the long run."
If you have a closed hole from a previous piercing, the aftercare looks a little different. "If it can be reopened, it's pretty easy to do, and you don't have to deal with all the aftercare of a new piercing," Harris said. "You can also put in a more fitted piece of jewellery right away."
Even though it's not ready for the teeny-tiny hoop of my dreams just yet, I'm already so excited about my new piercing. Just, um, please don't send this article to my mom!