Slapping on a good dose of moisturiser [1] twice a day to help combat oily [2], acne-prone skin can seem counterintuitive. But, in fact, it can be one of the most effective ways to look after your skin and balance oil production. Now, while we're not telling you to grab the creamiest or thickest moisturiser you can get your hands on and clog your pores, what we are telling you, is that hydration is key. To get to the bottom of what causes oily skin, how best to look after it, and which products the pros recommend, we called in some of the top dermatologists to explain. Spoiler alert: there's no clear-cut answer. In fact, not all experts believe a traditional moisturiser (think: creamy lotion) is the one and only route.
"The right moisturiser can help to balance your skin and regulate oil production by restoring the skin's natural barrier," Dr Thivi Maruthappu said.
What Causes Oily Skin?
Before we dive into the causes, you might be wondering whether you have oily skin. A simple way to check this, according to consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne [3], is to wash your face and 20 minutes later, see if your skin has produced more oil since cleansing it. If it has, your skin type is on the oilier side.
"Oily skin happens when the sebaceous glands produce too much sebum," London-based consultant dermatologist Dr Thivi Maruthappu [4] said. "Oil is produced in sebaceous glands and sits on the top of the skin to prevent moisture loss. But oily skin can still dry out if you use harsh facial cleansers, which can damage the skin's natural barrier. This can trigger over-production of oil, meaning your oily skin can end up worse off than you started," she explains.
Because of this, "it's important to distinguish between oil production and hydration," says Dr Maruthappu. "Your skin can be oily but still not be properly hydrated, which can lead to dull skin and sometimes make fine lines more apparent." This is where choosing the right moisturiser comes in.
Why Does Someone With Oily Skin Need a Moisturiser?
"The right moisturiser can help to balance your skin and regulate oil production by restoring the skin's natural barrier," Dr Maruthappa explains as to why someone with oily skin still needs to hydration.
Those with oily skin expect a lot in a moisturiser, and rightly so. Obviously, you need a moisturiser to, well, moisturise, but it also should "help to control oiliness and regulate sebum production", says Dr Tiina Meder [5], dermatologist, cardiologist, and founder of Meder Beauty. Essentially, "moisturisers for oily skin should support cellular functions while avoiding greasiness or plugging the pilosebaceous units (the hair shaft, hair follicle, and the sebaceous gland), which will increase breakouts," adds Dr Charlene DeHaven, M.D., and clinical director of iS Clinical [6].
What Should Someone With Oily Skin Look For in a Moisturiser?
To reduce the amount of duds on your quest to find the right face moisturiser, the experts we spoke to shared their thoughts not only on what you should look for, but also what you should steer clear of when choosing a moisturiser for oily skin.
"The number one thing to look for when you're buying a moisturiser is a non-comedogenic formula", says Dr Maruthappu. This essentially means non-clogging, and has been specially formulated to minimise the chance of blocking your pores and causing breakouts.
But not all experts believe a standard moisturiser is the best route. Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme [7], an aesthetic doctor and medical director of Adonia Clinic [8], believes that people with oily skin might get on better with a serum or ceramide treatment instead. Dr Maruthappu echoes this, recommending that you should look for a lightweight serum or gel formula.
To that point, Dr John Quinn [9], founder and medical director of Bristol-based Quinn Clinics, doesn't recommend a moisturiser at all for people with extremely oily skin — just hear him out, OK? Instead, he prefers clients use a good SPF. [10] "SPF ranks a lot higher than moisturiser. During the day, swapping a moisturiser for a non-comedogenic, broad-spectrum sunscreen [11] will shield the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays," says Dr Quinn. "In the day, look for residue-free SPF formulas that are packed full of ingredients like niacinamide, which can help balance oil production," he explains. At night, try swapping your occlusive cream for a retinol regime [12] (or even a prescribed retinoid) to bring the skin back into balance." A moisturising SPF is something that Dr Ejikeme also strongly recommends to her patients.
However, experts understand that some people like the feel of a moisturiser. If this is the case, Dr Anjali Mahto [13], consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible [14], recommends you look for lightweight, water-based serums or lotions that have a gel-like texture. Additionally, look out for ingredients such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid, niacinamide, or tea-tree oil, which can help reduce oil production or reduce blockages within the pores.
Dr Maruthappu notes other ingredients you may want to look out for include, dimethicone, hyaluronic acid and glycerin, all of which prevents and calms dryness and irritation.
What Should Someone With Oily Skin Avoid in a Moisturiser?
Just like there are certain ingredients you should look out for when shopping for a moisturiser, there are some you might want to skip.
Both Dr Mahto and Dr Maruthappu explain that you should avoid creams and lotions with bases of petrolatum, such as mineral oil, as this can potentially act as occlusives and block pores. In addition to this, Dr Craythorne, notes that you may want to be cautious of using coconut oil, isopropyl myristate, and polyethylene glycol. This is especially important if you have very sensitive skin and are prone to irritation.
So, the bottom line when finding a moisturiser for oily and acne-prone skin is that hydration is key, whether that's from an oil-free SPF or a powerful serum with a cocktail of active ingredients. And while — like all skin-care products — there is an element of trial and error in finding the perfect one, there are certain ingredients and formulas you should look out for and also avoid.
Read on to find out which moisturisers for oily, acne-prone skin types the experts recommend. We promise, they'll keep dehydration at bay with zero breakouts in sight.
Bioderma Sébium Hydra Moisturising Compensating Care (£8)
"Bioderma Sébium Hydra Moisturising Compensating Care [16] (£12) is a beautiful, non-comedogenic moisturiser, which will hydrate the skin yet still minimise pore blockage," says Dr Sophie Shotter [17], a cosmetic doctor and founder of Illuminate Skin Clinic [18].
La Roche-Posay Effaclar MAT+ Moisturiser For Oily Skin
Dr Craythorne recommends La Roche-Posay Effaclar MAT+ Moisturiser For Oily Skin [19] (£13) because the oil-free, non-comedogenic formula helps to reduce shine and control sebum.
Ole Henriksen Cold Plunge Pore Remedy Moisturiser
Formulated with salicylic acid and lipohydroxy acid, the Ole Henriksen Cold Plunge Pore Remedy Moisturiser [20] (£36) works to rid dead skin cells and unclog pores whilst balancing oil production, making it the perfect moisturiser for oily skin types.
ZO Skin Health Brightalive
Dr Ejikeme notes that if you have oily skin and breakouts, which have resulted in hyperpigmentation issues, "you might want to try a tyrosinase inhibitor", rather than a moisturiser, such as ZO Skin Health Brightalive [21] (available in skin and dermatology clinics).
Skinceuticals PhytoCorrective
If your skin is oily, red, and irritated, Dr Craythorne suggests Skinceuticals PhytoCorrective [22] (£60). The oil-free formula will hydrate the skin and calm irritation without blocking the pores.
Freederm Oil-Free Perfecting Moisturiser
Freederm Oil-Free Perfecting Moisturiser [23] (£7) is a great option for oily skin types since it's lightweight, hydrating, and also contains niacinamide, which helps target uneven skin tone, reduces inflammation, and combats breakouts. Oh, and it's a great price-point, which gets bonus points from Dr Mahto.
Obagi Hydrate Facial Moisturiser
Dr Ejikeme understands that some people like the feel of a traditional moisturiser, so in that case she consistently recommends the Obagi Hydrate Facial Moisturiser [24] (£40). "It's non-comedogenic and I've found that my patients who are very acne-prone can use it when their skin feels dry. For example, if you're very, very oily, you'll probably be using a retinol, which, in turn, will dry out the skin. This helps to soothe any of that dryness," she explains.
Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis Cream
"Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis Cream [25] (£42) is a beautiful cream that is moisturising, but also contains a unique ingredient called propolis, which heals and decongests oily skin, as well as reducing bacterial levels on the skin," says Dr Shotter.
Exuviance Night Renewal Hydragel
"For patients with oily skin, I will always suggest sticking to a treatment moisturiser that has mandelic acid in its formulation," says Pamela Marshall, clinical aesthetician at Mortar and Milk in London [26]. This is because the hydration will help to control oil production and the mandelic acid will help to decongest the pores. For oily and acne-prone skin, Marshall suggests Exuviance Night Renewal Hydragel [27] (£42).
Neostrata Sheer Hydration SPF 35
"Neostrata Sheer Hydration SPF 35 [28] (£45) is a moisturiser and SPF combined designed specifically to hydrate and protect oily skin," says Dr Shotter. It's simple yet effective.
Eucerin Sun Face Mattifying Fluid SPF50+
Since Dr Quinn doesn't recommend a traditional moisturiser for people with oily and acne-prone skin, he suggests a moisturising SPF like Eucerin Sun Face Mattifying Fluid SPF50+ [29] (£12). It dries down matte and doesn't leave a greasy residue, making it a great option under makeup.
Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Moisture-Enhancing Fluid
Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Moisture-Enhancing Fluid [30] (£55) is highly recommended by Dr Shotter thanks to the fact the oil-free serum is nourishing yet lightweight, containing both hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5.
iS Clinical Hydra-Cool Serum
Dr DeHaven recommends iS Clinical Hydra-Cool Serum [31] (£50) as the non-greasy formula contains hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5, and mushroom extract, which all together help to hydrate, protect the skin barrier, and soothe irritation.
Selfless by Hyram Niacinamide & Maracujá Daily Barrier Support Moisturiser
The Selfless by Hyram Niacinamide & Maracujá Daily Barrier Support Moisturiser [32] (£24) gel-cream formula makes it an excellent all-rounder.
The formula contains niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3 known as somewhat of a do-it-all ingredient because it helps with reducing inflammation and redness, decreasing oil production, and hydrating skin. Yarbro has combined this with maracujá oil, which promotes skin healing and supports the skin barrier, and madecassoside, an emerging ingredient with skin-soothing benefits that's perfect for sensitive skin. You can't go wrong with this moisturiser. It sits well under makeup, feels ultra lightweight, and isn't irritating in the slightest.
Skincity Skincare 24HR Light Emulsion
If your skin isn't too oily, Dr Meder suggests trying Skincity Skincare 24HR Light Emulsion [33] (£29). It's great for oily and combination skin — particularly those living in the city — thanks to its cocktail of ingredients. Antioxidents such as green tea, Asian knotweed, and skullcap herb help to calm irritation and protect from pollution, while ceramides and squalane help restore the skin barrier and fight dehydration.
Heliocare Gel Sunscreen
For people with oily and acne-prone skin who aren't getting on well with a regular moisturiser, Dr Ejikeme advises trying an oil-free gel SPF like Heliocare Gel Sunscreen [34] (£23.50).
Paula’s Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturiser
Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturiser [35] (£28) is another great option, according to Mahto, because its lightweight, oil-free formula contains niacinamide, which helps to regulate oil production.
Epionce Ultra Shield SPF 50
Dr Ejikeme told POPSUGAR that she "really, really likes" Epionce Ultra Shield SPF 50 [36] (£31), because it feels just like a moisturiser and has an SPF factor of 50. So with this moisturising sunscreen, you get two-in-one.
Meder Beauty Science Equa-Derm Cream
Dr Meder explains that "Meder Beauty Science Equa-Derm Cream [37] (£74) is formulated with a natural molecule made from avocado flesh, butyl avocadate, which acts similarly to retinol, by reducing sebum production by 30 percent in the first two weeks of use." Additionally, it contains mushroom extract, which works to tighten pores and decrease skin sensitivity.
Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydration Booster Serum
Another superhydrating serum that can be used in place of a face cream according to Dr Mahto is Vichy Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydration Booster Serum [38] (£19). As it says in the name, it contains a lot of hyaluronic acid and glycerin to intensely hydrate the skin.