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By now, you've probably heard about the many benefits of retinol for various skin concerns: it's clinically proven to boost cell turnover, which means it's one of the most effective over-the-counter ingredients for fading dark spots, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and treating acne.
Still, because of its efficaciousness, retinol can also be harsh on the skin and lead to dryness, irritation, and peeling (even more so if you're using a prescription-strength retinoid). If you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or simply looking for a gentler alternative that delivers similar results, there are plenty of options to consider. "Retinol alternatives are wonderful to provide people with anti-ageing topical options that may be less irritating and more tolerable, as well as safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding," board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD, tells POPSUGAR.
There are a number of alternative ingredients that you can keep an eye out for: "Bakuchiol, peptides, growth factors, antioxidants, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxy acids, are some of the non-retinoid topical ingredients that also have anti-ageing properties," Dr. King says. So what do each of these ingredients do, you may ask? Read ahead to find out.
Best Alternative Retinol Ingredients
As Dr. King mentioned, peptides make a great retinol alternative. Versions such as copper peptides, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, and hexapeptides increase skin elasticity and firmness, stimulate cell regeneration, and diminish creasing, respectively, making them extremely versatile when it comes to anti-ageing.
Bakuchiol has been long used in Ayurvedic medicine, Dr. King says. "Bakuchiol is one of the few retinol alternatives for which studies back up the pseudo-retinol effect of anti-ageing and skin brightening," she says. "One study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that it could reduce signs of sun damage equally as well as retinol, while another paper in International Journal of Cosmetic Science reported improvements in lines and wrinkles, skin elasticity and pigmentation. Bakuchiol seems to be activating the genes that regulate collagen and elastin production — the same ones retinol activates, but it doesn't seem to irritate and redden skin the way retinol often does, so it appears to be a gentler option."
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B-3, an essential nutrient for your body. When used topically, it has a host of benefits. "Niacinamide has been shown to protect against ultraviolet damage that can cause skin cancers, calms redness and inflammation, [and] helps reduce itch and retain moisture in the skin," Geeta Yadav, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Science Dermatology, previously told POPSUGAR. "Niacinamide increases natural lipids on the skin and reduces water loss, thereby reducing pore size," says Ellen Marmur, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of MMSkincare. "It can also improve skin texture," making it an effective retinol alternative.
AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are other great options; examples include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid. They help to exfoliate dead skin cells on the surface of your skin to promote an even, smooth, and glowing complexion.
Growth factors are another retinol alternative that can "increase collagen and elastin, thicken skin, and improve tone and texture," says Dr. King. "There are some plant-based engineered options that have been well tested and shown to be effective. Some plant based options use a human-like epidermal growth factor that is made in bioengineered barley seeds and studies have shown that it is effective in increasing skin thickness."
So now that you know what ingredients to look out for, what are the best retinol alternatives on the market? Dr. King broke down her favourites, as well as why they made the cut, ahead.