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This Is the Best Over-the-Counter Retinol Cream That Actually Works, According to Skin Experts

06/08/2021 - 05:20 PM

When I first pitched the idea of a round-up of the best over-the-counter retinol [1] products as recommended by skin experts, I was expecting this feature to be a rundown of around eight affordable retinol-spiked creams and serums that you can buy online or in stores without a prescription. But, the thing is, stories don't always pan out how you think they will, and when I put my question to the experts, it fast became clear that almost every dermatologist and facialist rated the same OTC retinol product. But before I reveal the one that came so highly recommended, for those of you that don't know about the skin-care ingredient in question, here's a quick retinol refresher.

How Retinol Works

Retinol, which is found in over-the-counter products, is a derivative of vitamin A. In the skin, it's converted to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid. That is when it can get to work to rev up skin cell turnover, boost collagen and elastin production, and thicken the skin, so it's stronger and plumper. By essentially tricking the skin into acting younger, over time, you will see that fine lines, pores, hyperpigmentation, and blemishes are reduced.

The prescription form of vitamin A, known as retinoic acid (or retin-A,) doesn't have to go through conversion in the skin, which means it's faster acting; but on the flip side, it can cause irritation. That's not to say OTC retinol won't cause some side effects. Since retinol is turbocharging your skin cells to turnover beyond what is natural for your skin, you may notice some flaking, redness, and sensitivity even though it's more gentle than the prescription form.

To minimise irritation, you should only use retinol at night, wear SPF in the day (even when it's cloudy [2]), and take it easy. Start with a retinol product with a low percentage of the active ingredient (it will often state what percentage is contained in the formula — 0.1 percent is low, whereas 1 percent would be considered fairly high). Sometimes formulas claim to contain more retinol because of clever encapsulating technology, but as a rule of thumb, it's best to start with the lowest concentration your brand of choice offers (if there is an option). Always follow the instructions — some formulas can be applied every night, whereas with some you need to build up to nightly use gradually. Everyone's skin is different, so start applying your retinol cream three nights a week, and if you don't get any unwanted side effects, then build up to four nights, then five, and so on.

The Hero Over-the-Counter Retinol Buy

So, which retinol product comes so highly recommended? Medik8's range of Intelligent Retinol serums [3]. Kate Kerr, advanced facialist and director of Kate Kerr London [4], puts it simply: "You get a decent dose of retinol at a really good price point."

The serums start at £29 for the 0.3 percent called 3TR; there is the 0.6 percent called 6TR, which is £35; and the 1.0 percent, which you guessed it, is the 10TR, for £40. Each of the three percentages also come in an "intense" formula that is turbocharged with additional skin smoothing and strengthening ingredients. These include squalane, which is naturally found in our skin's lipid barrier and is incredibly nourishing, alongside climabazale, which Medik8 explains in its ingredient glossary is, "able to block the enzyme which breaks down retinoic acid, leaving a reservoir of vitamin A for the skin to use up. This means climbazole strives for maximum vitamin A results, while keeping irritation at an all time low." Why are Medik8's Intelligent Retinol serums so well-loved by facialists and dermatologists? Dr Mark Hudson-Peacock, consultant dermatologist at Stratum Dermatology Clinic [5], explains that, "the Medik8 retinol is presented in a carrier oil, which is quicker and easier to apply than a cream. It is well tolerated, absorbs quickly, and is effective in what it is designed to achieve." The carrier oil in question is rich in the antioxidant vitamin E, which is great for nourishing the skin but also helps to keep the retinol stable.

Keep reading to discover a few of the expert's favourite formulations in the Medik8 range, as well as several other dermatologist-recommended OTC retinol options for those with oily skin, sensitive skin, mature skin, or even those who have been using retinol for years.

Medik8 Retinol 3TR

It can be tempting to skip straight to a higher retinol concentration, to get more bang for your buck, as it were. But, Dr Hudson-Peacock tells us, "I prefer to recommend Medik8 Retinol 3TR [6] (£29), the lowest strength in the line. I then advise stepping up depending on tolerability when a replacement is needed." So, start with the 3TR, then once you run out, look to step up to the 3TR Intense or go straight to the 6TR.

Medik8 Retinol 6TR+ Intense

Alexander Johnston, general manager of John Bell & Croyden [7], London's Luxury Pharmacy and a skincare correspondent for GQ magazine, also rates Medik8's retinol serum, specifically the Medik8 Retinol 6TR+ Intense [8] (£40). "A great overnight treatment, it is time released, giving you the maximum effects through the night. The addition of vitamin E reduces any sensitivity from use," he explains.

The Best Over-the-Counter Retinol For Newbies and Those With Oily Skin

For those who don't like oils or who have oilier skin, Dr Hudson-Peacock recommends the SkinCeuticals retinol range.

"Again, start on the lower strength — the Skinceuticals Retinol 0.3 [9] (£65) — and work your way up as tolerated," he explains. "I advise using a pea-size amount for the whole face after washing and drying in the evening about half an hour before going to bed and using a moisturiser just before bed, if the patient prefers to do that as well. If the patient is a bit more sensitive, using a moisturiser in this way can contribute to reducing this in a pre-emptive way."

The Best Over-the-Counter Retinol For Newbies and Those With Oily Skin

Another very good retinol serum for newcomers to the ingredient is dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting's Flawless Nightly Serum [10] (£39). It contains granactive retinoid, an ester of all-trans retinoic acid, that binds to retinoid receptors in the skin without needing to go through conversion, so it's gentle whilst being pretty effective.

Dr Bunting notes that the formula also "contains an additional three actives — bakuchiol (a natural retinol alternative), niacinamide, and azelaic acid — to further help with redness, pigmentation, and blemishes. It removes the confusion of trying to combine lots of different actives in separate products by yourself because it's effectively a one-stop shop. There's nothing else quite like it on the market."

The Best Over-the-Counter Retinol for Sensitive Skin

Shani Darden is an LA-based aesthetician loved by celebrities like Emily Ratajkowksi, Rosie Huntington-Whitely, and Jessica Alban, and her Shani Darden Retinol Reform [11] (£80) is a favourite amongst top beauty editors for the fact the formula is so incredibly gentle. It also comes recommended by dermatologist Dr Adeline Kikam, who added it to her list of "Top OTC Retinoids" [12] on her Instagram account @brownskinderm [13].

The formula contains 2.2% encapsulated retinol ester, along with lactic acid, an exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid that also acts as a humectant, which helps to pull moisture into the skin. Using this serum on a regular basis (starting twice a week and working your way up to more), and your complexion is left smoother, brighter, and clearer.

The Best Over-the-Counter Retinol For Veterans

For more mature skin, or for those who have been using OTC retinol for a while, Dr Ross Perry, owner of skin clinics chain Cosmedics [14], rates Medik8's Crystal Retinal 6 [15] (£59), used as a night cream. And just like Medik8's Intelligent Retinol serums [16], these come in increasing percentages.

"This range contains retinal, a new formulation on the classic retinol that gives up to 11 times the effect. It also has hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and vitamin E to help hydrate the skin at every level," Dr Perry explains. So, how does retinal differ from retinol? Well, as we mentioned before, retinol converts in the skin to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid. But retinal only has to convert to retinoic acid, so it's much faster acting (and better suited to existing users with skin that's adapted to retinol use).

The Best Over-the-Counter 2-in-1 Retinol and AHA Formula

"My favourite nonprescription retinol product is Skin Better AlphaRet Overnight Cream [17] (£99)," says Dr Sophie Shotter [18]. "This is an American cosmeceutical brand that is available in the UK through clinics and skincare specialists. I like it because it is very tolerable, and you get firming, plumping, and glowing skin in one product," Dr Shotter explains. "It is also superunique because it combines retinol with alpha-hydroxy acids, which traditionally you couldn't mix because together they irritated skin. However, now you can get the benefit of both in one product formulation. [And from experience], I have had no irritation with this product."

What's interesting about Skin Better Science is that you can buy it "over the counter" online via the unique skincare concierge service Get Harley [19], where you can get skincare products delivered to your door that are usually only sold in clinics. The service involves a video consultation with a practitioner to determine the products you need, which are then sent direct to your door.


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