How to Do At-Home Blackhead Extractions Safely
Tempted to Squeeze Those Blackheads? Here's How to Do At-Home Extractions, Safely
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Not to get all Coach Carr from Mean Girls on you, but the general consensus of skin experts on at-home pore extractions, much like popping a pimple, is akin to passing out condoms to high schoolers: "We're not encouraging it, but if they're going to do it, let's make it safe," said aesthetician Candace Marino.
In all their gooey glory, excavating a blackhead can be wildly satisfying — a top guilty beauty indulgence, to be sure — but, like many tricky-to-do services, is often best left to the pros. Still, if you can't peel yourself away from the 10X magnifying mirror any time you step into the bathroom, Marino has some best practices to DIY facial extractions safely.
The first (and oddly, the trickiest) step is to identify a blackhead from something else. Those little dots smattered across your nose, for example? You might be mistaking those for sebaceous filaments. "Blackheads will be raised, textured, truly black, thick and waxy," she said. "The skin oils solidify, forming plugs which can dilate the pore further leading to enlarged pores. Sebaceous filaments are the normal function of the follicle. Narrow, lighter in colour under the skin — they do not fully obstruct the pore and are not meant for extractions."
Then, Marino's full step-by-step guide ahead. As for that black extraction extraction tool you've heard all about? In the words of Coach Carr: Just don't do it, OK? Promise?
Step 1: Soften the Pores With Steam
Just like in most facials after you cleanse the skin, you'll want to introduce some heat. (Although Marino noted this step is "not recommended for anyone with melasma or hyperpigmentation.") This can help soften the pores and make it easier to extract the debris perched up inside.
You can buy a ready-made steamer like the Panasonic Facial Steamer (£110) to make the process easy, or you can go the more cost-effective route. Simply boil hot water on the stove, throw some tea in the water to amp up the spa-like sensorial experience, and "hover over the pot with a towel over your head to trap in steam for five minutes," she said. "Don't do any longer or it can cause transepidermal water loss and dehydration."
Step 2: Extract With Cotton Pads
The first rule of thumb to extracting your blackheads "with caution and care," as Marino puts it, is to step away from the pore extraction tool. "Put down the knife — leave digging devices to the professionals to avoid potential permanent scarring or pigmentation issues and injury," she said. "Use clean fingers only."
Instead, wrap your finger in tissue or cotton pads, and then gently (!) pinch the skin together and press upward. Press only in the direction you want to congestion to go (if you're pressing down onto the skin "you're making things worse, and potentially spreading bacteria under the skin").
You'll also want to leave aggravated or super stubborn acne alone. "Hard, angry, or underground is no-go."
Step 3: Wash Away Lingering Debris
Next, and to "keep face free from cellular build up and environmental sludge," you'll want to cleanse the skin. Marino recommends a face wash with light exfoliating acids like the Oxygen Infusion Wash (£35) to keep pores clean.
Stay away from overly drying ingredients, like benzoyl peroxide, since overuse can create a rebound effect and kick sebum production into overdrive.
Step 4: Put It On Ice
Finally, you'll want to cool the skin. Immediately after the at-home extractions, Marino recommends a facial roller device. "The StackedSkincare Ice Roller (£14) is ideal for immediate inflammation reduction and pain," she said. Then, in the next few days, reach for a hydrating, calming, and soothing serum like the iS Clinical HydraCool Serum (£46) to address any redness that may pop up afterward.
