POPSUGAR UK

All Your Questions About Serums, Essences, and Toners — Answered

13/01/2021 - 08:00 PM

There are products in your skin-care routine that are pretty self-explanatory, like cleansers and moisturisers, but then in between those two steps is a bit of a grey area. That's where serums, toners, and essences live. If you're a skin-care pro who already knows what each of these product categories [1] does and what order they're applied [2], then you can skip right ahead to our product recommendations for each, but if you're a bit more unfamiliar with layering these beauty products, allow us to formally solve any confusion.

At first glance toners, serums, and essences can seem very similar. They can have the same type of packageing and texture, making them hard to distinguish between — especially when sifting through the many options on store shelves. Still, there are a few key differences. We're breaking them down here.

What Is a Toner?

Toners are liquid formulas that can be applied on a cotton pad (we prefer reusable ones) and swept across the skin. It should be your first step immediately after washing your face and patting dry. Their original purpose was to balance the pH in the skin that was disrupted from harsh ingredients in soap-based facial cleansers, which have since been phased out.

"Now that more cleansers are pH balanced, toners really are not necessary [for that], but they can fulfil different purposes, such as an extra layer of cleansing, adding hydration, or exfoliating," Ted Lain [3], MD, chief medical officer at Sanova Dermatology [4], told POPSUGAR. Depending on the type of toner, they might contain exfoliating acids to address uneven texture and pores, astringent properties to reduce oil, anti-inflammatories to soothe redness and irritation, and glycerin to boost hydration. While many old-school toners were high in alcohol, newer versions make it easy to steer clear of this drying ingredient.

What Is an Essence?

Commonly used in Korean 10-step regimens, think of essences as watered-down serums, in that they tend to have a thinner liquid consistency or water-gel textures. Many have similar ingredients that you'd find in a serum, only with one key difference. "The higher water content allows for those with sensitive skin to tolerate active ingredients better than using a serum," said Dr. Lain.

If you want to use both an essence and serums in your routine, apply your essence first. A good rule of thumb is that you should always layer products from thinnest texture to thickest, because it allows the ingredients to better penetrate the skin).

What Is a Serum?

Serums are where you'll find the most of your active ingredients, as they contain higher concentrations than other formulations, explained Dr. Lain. "Usually a few drops is all that is needed to cover the face, since these are powerful products." Serums can come in gel, liquid, or oil form, these formulas will almost always sway thicker in consistency than your toner or essence.

Again, if you wish to use all three of these products, the order to apply goes: toner, essence, then serums. The options ahead are a good place to start.

Cocokind Rosewater Toner

In addition to balancing the skin's pH, the Cocokind Rosewater Toner [5] ($17) helps soothe and hydrate skin so you don't experience that tight feeling that sometimes occurs after cleansing. It's formulated with one single ingredient: organic rose water. As a bonus, you can also apply it over makeup for an instant refresh.

The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution

The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution [6] ($9) offers mild exfoliation, but because of the powerful hero ingredient in the toner, it's best to only use it at night. Swipe it on your skin after you wash your face to address uneven texture and clogged pores.

Glowoasis Milkdew Toner

If your skin type is dry (or you live somewhere that experiences cold winters), the Glowoasis Milkdew Toner [7] ($34) has a creamier texture than most essences and can help boost moisture in your skin. Because of the calming ingredients in the formula, you can use it morning and night.

Bliss Clear Genius Clarifying Toner + Serum

The Bliss Clear Genius Clarifying Toner + Serum [8] ($18) is a hybrid product meant to replace two steps in your skin-care routine with one. Salicylic acid in the formula keeps pores clear while witch hazel tones and niacinamide helps control oil production and improves texture.

Then I Met You The Giving Essence

The Then I Met You The Giving Essence [9] ($50) does it all: hydrates, gently exfoliates, provides antioxidants to the skin. If you're looking for a product that can play well with other active ingredients in your skin-care routine, try this.

Dermalogy by Neogenlab Real Ferment Micro Essence

Sensitive skin types can benefit from incorporating the Dermalogy by Neogenlab Real Ferment Micro Essence [10] ($38) into their routine. It doesn't have any exfoliating benefits but it makes up for it by leaving your skin deeply hydrated and strengthen the skin's barrier.

SK-II Facial Treatment Essence

You probably recognise the SK-II Facial Treatment Essence [11] ($185) from your favourite celebrity's Instagram. This liquid leaves skin looking radiant thanks to a blend of vitamins, minerals, and amino acids in it.

Ceramide Micro Capsule Skin Replenishing Essence

The Ceramide Micro Capsule Skin Replenishing Essence [12] ($85) has a slightly thicker, liquid-gel-like formula but don't worry, it still absorbs just as quickly. Immediately after using it, your skin will feel nourished and have a glass-like glow to it.

Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Hyaluronic Glow Serum

The Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Hyaluronic Glow Serum [13] ($68) will give you a dewy glow that rivals that post-facial radiance we all love. Use it alone or before an exfoliating serum to boosts moisture in the skin.

L'Oréal Revitalift Derm Intensives 10% Pure Glycolic Acid Serum

As far as exfoliating serums go the L'Oréal Revitalift Derm Intensives 10% Pure Glycolic Acid Serum [14] ($30) is one of the best. It's powerful enough to address uneven texture, fine lines, and dark spots but gentle enough that it shouldn't irritate the skin. Just be sure to start by using it only two or three nights a week and build up to using it with more frequency.

Tula Brightening Treatment Drops Triple Vitamin C Serum

The key to radiant, glowing skin: vitamin C. Not only does it help brighten dark spots but it also helps protect against environmental aggressors. The Tula Brightening Treatment Drops Triple Vitamin C Serum [15] ($48) contains three types of vitamin C and doesn't feel sticky when applied.

Pacifica Vegan Collagen Complex Serum

The Pacifica Vegan Collagen Complex Serum [16] ($22) supports a supple, nourished complexion with collagen derived from plant fermentation. Additional ingredients in the serum include hyaluronic acid and plant oils for moisture.


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