I spent most of my life thinking hair extensions [1] were only used to add length. Though I'd seen them on every reality TV show I'd ever watched, from Love Island to Geordie Shore, Keeping Up With The Kardashian and The Hills, it wasn't until recently that I discovered the real reason they're so popular is because they add fullness, volume, and, depending on what you want, dimensions of colour — in other words, everything a brunette with fine hair could ever dream of.
I'm now obsessed with the idea and want to get them fitted ASAP, but as a hair extensions novice, I had absolutely no idea where to start. I wanted to know about the different types of extensions, what to look for, how to care for them, and whether or not they would damage my real hair, so I talked to Tatiana Karelina [2], owner of Russian hair extensions company Tatiana Karelina (who's tended to the hair extension queen herself, Ariana Grande [3]), Great Lengths expert Hadley Yates [4], who works out of London's influential Hershesons at Harvey Nichols Salon, and Dublin-based Shane O'Sullivan [5], founder and creative director of Easilocks. Read through to see what the pros had to say, and find everything you need to know about hair extensions before you get them.
There Are Many Different Types of Hair Extensions
Trying to decipher the many different types of hair extensions is no mean feat. And to make it even more confusing for first-timers, there seem to be multiple variations of the same technique. Here are five of the most popular.
Clip-ins
Clip-in extensions are a quick, affordable, and temporary way of achieving length, thickness, and volume at home. "The good quality clip-ins will look and feel natural, they will last years, there is no commitment, and you can fit and style them yourself," says Karelina. Perfect for those who want to change their look for an occasion such as a wedding, there are a range of ready to wear clip-ins to choose from, from one-piece clip-ins to 10-piece sets, ponytails, buns, and bangs, the latter of which you literally just clip to your hair.
Tape-ins
Tape-ins are considered to be semipermanent extensions that can last up to eight weeks and re-taped three times. While there are many more sections than clip-ins, tape-ins are applied by a trained hair technician, and Yates claims it only takes 45 minutes to fit a whole head. Tape-ins are generally lightweight and lie flat to your head, meaning they blend in seamlessly.
Weaves
Weaves are applied to the hair by a weave specialist who braids the client's natural hair, and then sews wefts of extensions into each braid. Generally, weaves last up to two weeks, but fortnightly maintenance checks are recommended.
Micro Rings
Micro rings is an extensions technique where a hairstylist attaches the extensions to strands of natural hair using tiny copper rings. The rings come in different sizes and are distributed across the head to ensure the extensions remain discreet. Considered permanent extensions, they typically last three to four months before requiring tightening and, if cared for correctly, the hair can be reused multiple times. Nano rings are almost exactly the same as micro rings, but the rings are smaller and made of metal.
Bonds
Pre-bonded extensions — also known as fusion extensions or keratin extensions — are one of the most well-known and widely used types of extensions. Fused to the hair using keratin and a heat gun, the process can take over two hours as each extension is connected to your natural hair individually until the desired look has been achieved. Like micro rings, bonds are considered to be permanent, and depending on personal maintenance, can last for up to four months before needing to be refitted.
You Need to Choose Your Salon Carefully
Karelina, Yates, and O'Sullivan all agree that when it comes to choosing a salon, it's important to do your research. Karelina believes there is a lack of transparency in the industry, but you can manage your expectations by looking into the salon, the stylist, and reviews. Check their social media accounts, and don't be afraid to reach out to ask for more examples of their work.
And Take Your Consultation Seriously
According to Yates, consultations should be mandatory. "Without one, you're more than likely to end up with just the typical long hair that isn't blended properly, doesn't look natural, and doesn't do you or the salon any credit," he explained. During the consultation, the hair technician is able to assess your hair and better understand what it is you want. They'll tell you all about the brand of extensions they use and provide a colour match. Feel free to shop around to find a technician that you feel comfortable with.
When It Comes to Extensions, Maintenance Is Key
"You should be visiting your stylist for maintenance checks every couple of months to make sure everything is in check," says Yates. When it comes to lifespan, it really depends on the type and quality of the extensions, but there's a lot to be said about how you care for them. Each type of extension will have a different aftercare method, so it's important that you listen to your hair technician when you're having them fitted, and take notes if you have to. Many brands will have aftercare ranges specifically created for use with their extensions but the number one rule is to always use a sulphate-free shampoo [6]. Shane O'Sullivan, who's worked with Cheryl Cole [7] and Ashley Benson, recommends you brush your hair at least twice a day to keep the roots clean and hair tangle-free. He also suggests those with extensions use a leave-in conditioner spray daily, and never go to bed with wet hair.
Damage Is Unlikely
Like most things, when it comes to extensions, you get what you pay for. Choosing high-quality, premium, and 100-percent natural hair is essential. While clip-ins and tape-ins are unlikely to damage your natural hair, there are risks associated with semipermanent and permanent methods. "If applied by a specialist, they should have the knowledge of what is best to use for you, and there should be no damage," explained Yates. If they are poorly applied, they are likely to damage and weaken the root of your natural hair, which can cause issues such as hair loss.
Be Sensible About Your Budget
Hair extensions are expensive, and prices vary across the UK. Permanent extensions will always be more expensive than clip-ins, but as maintenance is so important, you should keep your budget in mind before committing. Consider your lifestyle and your reasons for wanting extensions, then invest in the best you can afford.