If you've been blessed with kinks, coils, and everything in the curly between, you're likely well-versed in the measured dance that takes place within the cathedral-like walls of hair shops across the country. Thanks to innovation within the Black hair space — brought about by both Black beauty founders [1] and a community forged online — we've seen a seismic shift in how information and products for Afro and multitextured hair is communicated and sold.
After being historically ignored by the mainstream beauty industry, Black women have begun to reclaim space [2] for Afro hair and for Black people, and the result is that shelves are now full of products that promise to
hydrate strands [3], tame edges, treat damage, and add length and shine. But as we know, this was very much not always the case. Between a single lone shelf in drugstores to the high street shops providing Black hair care brands frequently not owned by Black people themselves, until quite recently, Black people have been very limited in their hair-care choices.
That means the products that were available became an integral part of the Black hair experience [4] in the UK, whether it was your first relaxer box, braid-lengthening packets of Xpressions, or jar of Eco Styler. And praise for these brands is long overdue. These beloved products have filled our shopping baskets and washday arsenals for decades and helped us to nourish and style our 'fros proudly — a long-lasting relationship that now drives around 10 percent of the UK's hair-care spending. [5]
Black hair and our connection to products is not one to be underestimated as mere materialism, according to Ava Welsing-Kitcher [6], a beauty editor and expert on all things Afro hair. "I'd say we're in the midst of one of the biggest turning points of Black hair history. The industry's finally paying attention to the power of the Black pound and dollar, and there have never been more products on shelves created for us, or by us, or both," she told POPSUGAR. "And thanks to emblems of Black hair history like the Afro pick — a tool that dates back to Ancient Egypt through to Ghana's duafes, all the way through to its symbolic use during the Civil Rights Movement — it's clear that Black hair products have always been more than just a tool."
With that sentiment in mind, we look back at the lotions, tools, and serums that have helped to shape Black British hair over the years, as well as a few recent game-changing introductions.
The Afro Pik Hair Drying Attachment
"The Afro pik hair drying attachment undoubtably helped revolutionise the way Afro hair was dried," Florence Johnson, hairstylist and owner of Simply Gorgeous Afro Hair Salon in London [7], told POPSUGAR." The Pik attachment allows for Afro hair to be to be effortlessly stretched and prepped for a myriad of styles (including braids), and helps give your hair a smoother and longer lasting finish". For the best pik action, Johnson recommends the Wahl Power Pik 2 [8] (£20).
Creme of Nature Argan Oil Perfect Edges Extra Hold
"Where would a Black girl be without edge control?" said podcaster Prinny Rae [9]. "A majority of my hair-care journey since I was a teenager and began having autonomy over my hair has been about finding a gel that actually works on my edges — one that keeps them laid whilst not leaving a white residue or drying out the strands. It sounds so simple but it's a process and a journey that all Black girls, especially in the UK, can relate to. The launch of Creme of Nature Perfect Edges Extra Hold [10] (£4) with argan oil was a true game-changer and a very iconic moment in UK Black hair history!"
Schwarzkopf Got2b Glued Blasting Freeze Spray
Beloved for its staying power and versatility, this is a hairspray for the Black British hair books. That being said, "it's tricky territory thinking about products that have shaped the history of Black hair, mainly because so many brands have been mass conglomerates and not Black-owned — and if they are, they've often been bought out and transformed," explained beauty editor Ava Welsing-Kitcher [11]. "Take Schwarzkopf Got2b Glued Blasting Freeze Spray [12] (£4), for example. For years, Black women have repurposed it to melt lace fronts with hours of staying power, but adverts for it were still marketed towards Caucasian hair for a long time before recently taking a much-needed turn."
Hair Bobbles
"Coloured bobbles were a huge part of my childhood," said Amber Leaux [13], the cohost of Style & City Diaries podcast. "I think it's a hair accessory that resonates with every Black woman. They would be wrapped so tightly around your buns, braids, or ponies, but the headache never mattered as you knew you and your hair was looking fly. They were a huge part of the school photo experience as well, picking out your favourite colours bobbles to match your uniform or top. I can't wait to have my own kids one day to do cute hairstyles using these bobbles." We recommend picking up the Claire's Club Knocker Beads Hair Bobbles [14] (£3, originally £5).
Dark and Lovely Let's Jam! Shining & Conditioning Gel Extra Hold
Before there was Eco Styler, there was Dark and Lovely's Jam Gel [15] (£3.50), a permanent fixture on our mother's, aunties', and cousins' dressing table. "I think, like most people, I was never quite clear on the origins of so many products," said hairstylist and visual artist Joy Matashi [16]. "Was Jam Gel made in Britain, America, or was it from China? No one knew, but we used it because it was always recommended by family or friends. I used it to slick my hair into a ponytail for school and [use it to] smooth down edges when leave-out weaves became a huge thing in school."
Avalon Kera Care Silken Seal Blow Drying Lotion
"Brands like Avalon and Mizani are always a big stand out for me as hair companies that have been a big part of Black British hair evolution," said celebrity hairstylist Pashcan'el Mitchell [17]. "They were at the forefront of Afro hair products for me. Coming up as a stylist, they were constant in pushing the boundaries and evolving their products to allow Afro hair to be as versatile as possible; products like the Avalon's Kera Care Silken Seal Blow Drying Lotion [18] (£10) allow for a silk press, today. Curls, tomorrow."
Carra Subscription Service
Thanks to Carra [19] — which is personalised hair-care website that offers styling advice and product recommendations for those with multitextured hair — the process of finding out how best to address your hair concerns (dryness, dandruff, breakage, you name it), is now infinitely easier. Alongside discovering your hair texture, Carra's impact on re-envisioning today's noisy and overwhelming textured hair experience, via access to the platform's long list of experts, has been a Black hair game changer.
The website boasts two subscription packages — the Carra Starter "Ludus" [20] (£40) that includes one session or the Carra Bundle "Philia" [21](£100) that includes three sessions.
Luster Pink Oil Moisturiser Hair Lotion
"Luster's Pink Oil Lotion [22] (£3.50) was an early staple for my family," said Matashi. "You would always find it in high street hair shops and we used it on our scalp and all over our ends. The literal presence of it on my hair strands would make my room fill with smoke every time I used the blow dryer, but it's definitely a product for the history books."
Aquis Copper Sure Rapid Dry Hair Wrap
Low-frizz washdays rely on a careful balance of hydration first, and then locking in your favourite leave-in conditioner second. The faster you dry you hair from root to tip after this is key to help to combat damage and seal in moisture. Rapid dry hair wraps, like the Aquis Copper Sure Rapid Dry Hair Wrap [23] (£30), have been vital in this postwash dance and will continue to be a Black hair saviour for years and years.
ORS Olive Oil Relaxer
The history between those who have been blessed with naturally wavy, curly, or coily hair and the straightening of said hair is complex and one with many nuances. Nonetheless, if you have ever opted to wear your 'fro bone straight, then you've likely used a box of ORS Olive Oil Relaxer [24] (£6). These lotions and creams work by chemically altering the structure of the hair for temporarily sleeker strands (it usually lasts about six to eight weeks). From kitchens to sleek salons, relaxers are and have been a major part of Black hair history in the UK.
Ruka Hair
Brands like Premium Too [25] (by Sensationnel) were the go-to for those of us looking to whip around the strands of U-part sew-ins and slicked-back ponytails. Due to the booming natural hair movement, Black women are less likely to reach for straightened extensions packs these days. And thanks to brands like Ruka Hair [26], a line of extensions designed to blend with most naturally occurring afro patterns, we no longer have to choose between length and retaining texture.
Slip Pure Silk Turban
Hair bonnets from the local hair shop have undoubtedly served us well over a multitude of decades. Over the past few years, however, thanks to the introduction of silk turbans — like this uber-chic Pure Silk Turban [27] (£70) from Slip — protecting your coils can now look as fabulous as your newest wig.
No Knot Co Flexi Detangling Brush
No Knot Co's Detangling Brushes [28] (£13.50) are known for their "flex" technology and are a much appreciated new addition to Black hair care. As the flexibility and versatility of Afro hair is one of beauty worst kept secrets, it is only fitting to include an equally versatile brush that helps detangle your coils during wash days to come as a notable innovation.
Afrocenchix Sheen Natural Moisturing Spray
Painful braids? Spray. In need of an in-between washes revival? Spray. Sprays versus creams and oils on lazy 'fro days have always been a good idea, however, with the introduction of sprays from Black British brands like Afrocenchix and its Sheen Natural Moisturing Spray [29] (£12), brilliant sheen sprays have become even better.
Eco Styler Professional Styling Gel
Eco Styler Professional Styling Gel [30] (£4) is a curly- and coily-hair approved gel that has fast become one of the most recommended and used products within Black spaces over the past decade. It's perfect for adding definition, controlling edges, and holding loose coils and curls, all without getting crunchy or flaky once it dries. Its accessible pricing only adds to this gel's appeal.
X-Pression Braiding Hair
Let be honest: if you have ever sat down to have your Afro hair intricately braided into cornrows [31], knotless braids [32], or anything in-between, it's likely they were made possible by a pack of Xpressions [33]. The myriad of colours and endless styling potential make them a beloved classic and style maker.
Bouclème
When it comes to new-school Afro hair brands, an obvious winner for best in class Bouclème. Its beloved formulations focus on innovation and developing new Afro-friendly solutions for wash days. Whether you need to revive your roots with its coil-friendly Bouclème Foaming Dry Shampoo [34] (£18) or need an ultra-thin shampoo like the brand's Hydrating Hair Cleanser [35] (£15), to breathe life into week-three braids, this British brand is one for washday keeps.