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Milan Fashion Week Spring 2020: The Most Exciting Hair and Makeup Looks From the Runways

24/09/2019 - 01:00 PM

After New York [1] and London [2] always comes Milan in the official Fashion Month schedule, and it appears the Italians are picking up right where the Brits left off: with lots of thrilling, head-turning hair and makeup looks to complement their Spring/Summer 2020 collections.

The beauty trends [3] we saw picking up steam at both New York and London Fashion Weeks continued on through the Spring/Summer 2020 season, with pretty plaits making an appearance at Max Mara, shocks of neon showing up at Peter Pilotto and MSGM, earthy, flower-bedecked updos at Missoni and Marni, and Fendi carrying on the fashion world's current obsession with glitter eye makeup. And while, yes, these makeup looks are technically showing up at the Spring 2020 shows, there's no need to wait six months to try these out on your own. We've already taken a screenshot of the moody shadow-and-lipstick pairing at Max Mara to try out in the next few weeks; the cool-toned combination is a perfect makeup look for the chillier Autumn months ahead.

Keep reading to see our favourite beauty moments from Milan Fashion Week Spring 2020.

A Twist on the Classics at Prada Spring 2020

Black eyeliner and red lipstick are the two most timeless makeup items in existence. For Prada's Spring 2020 show, however, makeup artist Pat McGrath executed them in a way that felt unexpected and fresh — even whilst making the slightest nod to the beauty of the 1920s, an era referenced throughout the collection with cloche hats, feather accents, and drop-waist dresses.

On the lips, McGrath used her MatteTrance Lipstick in Elson [4] (£35), layering it over liner for depth and precision. For the liner, she moved it away from the lashes, instead using the Permagel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil in Xtreme Black [5] (£23) to fill in the space between the creases of the eyes and the brows, which were bleached to bring all the attention to stretches of black above the lids.

A Moody Pairing at Max Mara Spring 2020

Never in a million years would we think to wear robin's egg blue eye shadow with blackberry lipstick until we saw the unexpectedly pretty pairing at Max Mara. The combination of two cool-toned hues just, well, works, with the help of faint black wings that makeup artist Tom Pecheux placed at the outer corners of the eyes.

All of this was framed by two very precise pigtail braids by hairstylist Sam McKnight, who used hair gel to keep the braids clean and precise and braided them down to the very ends of the hair to make the look sharp, pointy, and a little bit dangerous.

Fendi Spring 2020

There was something inexplicably refreshing about the messy updos and smudgy, glittery black liner at Fendi, which felt like a more glamorous version of how we all end up looking by the end of a really fun night out.

To create the purposely disheveled ponytails (which on Kaia Gerber turned into a half-up style because of the length of her lob), hairstylist Sam McKnight prepped the hair with both his Lazy Girl Dry Shampoo [6] (£19) and Easy Up-Do Texture Spray [7] (£25). As for the makeup, Peter Philips both lined the lashes and the inner rims with inky black eyeliner, and then added platinum-coloured glitter just under the middle of the lower lashes, creating what we're going to call "glitter tears."

Paint-Splattered Nails at Vivetta Spring 2020

Another show, another artsy look, this time with an abstract nail art look that included a different-coloured polish splatters over a shimmery clear polish. We'd also just like to call out the glossy orange lids with gold glitter highlighter created by makeup artist Giulio Panciera — we're going to be copying that combo, stat.

Two-Toned Glitter Lips at Vivetta Spring 2020

For Vivetta Spring 2020, Panciera definitely didn't hold back. Not only did he create a few makeup looks for the show (see above), but each look was more creative than the next. This two-toned lip look had to be our favourite. Not only did Panciera swipe a fuchsia lipstick on the top lip and an orange lipstick on the bottom lip, but then he went one step further and topped each with a matching loose shade of loose glitter.

Dreamy Dual-Shadow at Cividini Spring 2020

Another city, another wildly colourful and utterly inspiring look from makeup artist Lottie. In London at Paula Knorr [8], Lottie went with a watercolour effect on the eyes using warm hues like pink, orange, and peach hues. Just a week later, at Cividini, Lottie creating an equally as colourful look, but this with cool tones like sky blue and shimmery violet purple, combining them in a way that was as inventive as it was incredibly beautiful.

Dreamy Dual-Shadow at Cividini Spring 2020

So pretty, we had to show you twice.

Bold Bambi Lashes at Marco di Vincenzo Spring 2020

The lashes at Marco di Vincenzo were long, multi-coloured, and very obviously fake — almost like the kind of false lashes you would find at a costume shop. But paired with fresh-looking skin and very little other makeup — as well as di Vincenzo's gorgeous designs — the effect was quite pretty and doll like.

Space Age Liner at Iceberg Spring 2020

Watecolour shadow plus 3-D holographic liner equals a makeup look that truly feels out of this world.

Environmentally-Friendly Headtoppers at Marni Spring 2020

Marni's Spring 2020 collection was a sartorial commentary on sustainability and the global climate crisis, and hairstylist Julien d'Ys created hauntingly beautiful hairstyles to align with the message. Using red, white, and green clay [9], according to Vogue, d'Ys slicked the models' hair back, letting it dry into a windblown-like shapes, then affixing real flowers into the hair, creating what can be best described as hair sculptures, versus hairstyles.

Painterly Touches at Moschino Spring 2020

Painter Pablo Picasso served as the inspiration behind both Jeremy Scott's Moschino Spring 2020 show and the beauty look that hairstylist Julien d'Ys and makeup artist Kabuki created for it. Using either custom-made wig or the models' natural hair, d'Ys (who gave Linda Evangelista that bob in the '90s that everyone is copying now), twisted the lengths of the hair into a voluminous ballerina bun at the base of the neck, then used a paintbrush to apply strokes of blue, red, yellow, pink, or white hair paint all over the models' hair. Some models also wore elaborate headpieces, including Gigi Hadid, who wore a veil and wedding dress [10] as the bride of the show.

Meanwhile, for the makeup, Kabuki also got all artsy with conceptual, negative-space cat eyes and red lips so precise they looked practically stamped on. As for that perfect crimson hue? That would be M.A.C. Retro Matte Liquid Lip Colour in Feel So Grand [11] (£19).

Painterly Touches at Moschino Spring 2020

A bird's eye views of the paint-splattered chignons by d'Ys.

Venetian Glass-Like Lids at Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2020

Here we have another beauty look inspired by the visual arts. Instead of referencing a famous painter, however, the eye makeup at Salvatore Ferragamo looked to the vibrant Murano glass accessories in the collection, makeup artist Fara Homidi [12] explained on her Instagram feed. Homidi also showed how, right before the models walked the runway she added clear lip gloss around her makeup masterpiece to create a "lucite effect" on the lids.

Exaggerated Finger Waves at Ermanno Scervino Spring 2020

Hairstylist Syd Hayes split the hair down the middle for this look, slicking the back half into a neat chignon and moulding the front half into finger waves that he shellacked with hairspray, giving the hair an almost plastic-like quality.

Glittery Gold Brows at Ermanno Scervino Spring 2020

Makeup artist Erin Parsons had the Midas touch backstage at Ermanno Scervino, giving four or five models what she described on her Instagram stories as "glitter dusted brows."

Detailed Braids at Gucci Spring 2020

There are always multiple hairstyles that come down the runway at Gucci each season, as designer Alessandro Michele prefers to showcase each model's unique hair style, cut, and texture. This season, amongst the baby bangs and bowl cuts, were several models with their hair braided in the most intricate, beautiful patterns. "Big big thanks to the incredible talented hands of Latarra," on his Instagram posts from the show, [13], giving a shoutout to the professional braider from London he brought in to help with the hair for the show. "#braids_for_all_textures 👏👏👏🥇, true master of her craft !!" he added.

Goth Glamour at Jil Sander Spring 2020

Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman and makeup artist Lucia Pieroni teamed up to create this moody beauty look. Souleiman slipped dainty headbands over wet-looking low ponytails, while Pieroni contrasted a dark blackcherry lip colour with ethereal, dewy-looking highlighter on the cheekbones (RMS Living Luminizer in Champagne Rose [14], £36).

Beautiful Braids at MSGM Spring 2020

Several of the natural-haired models who walked the MSGM runway wore the same intricate protective style that featured two braids that started at left side of the head, ran along the right side, and connected over the right ear.

'70s -Era Glam at Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini

"We were inspired by one of my favourite decades: the 70s," said hairstylist James Pecis of the soft, elegant hairstyle at Philosophy de Lorenzo Serafini. "It's a flowing hair look with very natural waves typical of that period." To create the airy volume at the roots, Pecis broke out his GHD Air Hair Dryer [15] (£99) and the brand's Root Lift Spray [16] (£14.50), then adding some soft bends along the face-framing pieces and through the lengths of the hair with the GHD Curve Soft Curl Tong [17] (£129).

Feather Eye Shadow at Shuting Qiu Spring 2020

Like a tiny little Van Gogh painting over each eye, makeup artist Lucie Nguyen combined multiple colours and textures on the lids at Shuting Qiu, using a cotton bud to feather out the edges of the pigment, creating a beautiful, wing-like shape.

Punky Pretty Updos at Missoni Spring 2020

For Missoni's Spring 2020 show, hairstylist Anthony Turner pinned the hair up into a grungey-looking French twist complete with messy ends, wet-looking roots, and exposed bobby pins. And then, for something completely different, on some of the models' he tucked delicate purple flowers into the twist, creating a juxtaposition between punk rock and garden party in one single hairstyle.

Neon Smudges at Peter Pilotto Spring 2020

Purple was just one of the many vibrant shades makeup artist Inge Grognard used backstage at Peter Pilotto, breaking out fuchsia, green, orange, and blue eyeliners as well. Taking a trend that's carried over from both New York and London Fashion Weeks [18], Grognard put her own subversive spin on the neon look by haphazardly tracing the lashes and right under the brows, creating imperfect dashes rather than graphic lines or wings.


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