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What is a Russian Manicure? We Asked a Professional

Why Russian Manicures Make Your Nails Look Photoshopped

  • Russian manicures have become increasingly popular in recent months.
  • Characterized by an extensive cuticle cleaning, this style is praised for providing an extremely neat look to the nail.
  • A celebrity manicurist breaks down everything you need to know before getting a russian manicure.

Kendall Jenner's manicurist Lisa Kon recently posted a picture of the model's nails on Instagram, and while Jenner chose an eye-catching tortoiseshell french tip as her design of choice, something else stood out: the incredibly clean and neat look of her cuticle area.

While a clean cuticle line is a prerequisite for any decent manicure, Jenner's in particular stood out because it looked like she had almost no cuticle at all, and the effect made her nails look incredibly natural. The secret behind this look, it turns out, is a technique called a russian manicure, and the style is quickly gaining traction in the United States.

Not only has there been an increase in TikTok videos documenting people's experience of getting russian manicures, but searches for the manicure trend have increased 110 percent over the last week, and experts are predicting that the look will take over in 2022. That said, there are definite downsides. For one, many dermatologists and manicurists will advise against cutting your cuticles completely (after all, they are there "to protect the new nail from bacterial and fungal infections as they grow out from the nail root," dermatologist Corey L. Hartman, MD, previously told POPSUGAR).

Still, to better understand the popularity of this growing nail trend, we asked celebrity manicurist Elle Gerstein to explain the ins and outs of a russian manicure, as well as what you can expect should you decide to get one. Read ahead for her best tips.

Image Source: Getty / Jim Craigmyle

What Are Russian Manicures?

A russian manicure actually has very little to do with nail art, and everything to do with the nail prep. "A russian manicure is a technique, not a design," says Gerstein. "The technique involves very extreme and extensive cuticle care [and requires a manicurist] to have almost surgeon-like precision."

The attention to detail and cuticle clean-up is what differentiates this manicure from others, along with the fact that there is "no hand filing whatsoever. [All cuticle clean up] is done with an e-file." While russian manicures use both normal and gel polishes, if using a gel, manicurists take extra time to make sure that they properly structure the gel polish on the nail, so that it best strengthens the nail bed.

How Long Do Russian Manicures Lasts?

While typical manicures last up to one to two weeks, russian manicures are said to have "three to four weeks" of longevity, Gerstein says.

Many manicurists tout that a russian manicure can last up to five weeks, but Gerstein does not recommend keeping the nail polish on for that long. "The growth of your nail becomes so top heavy with the material that's on your nail that if you bump it, you can knock your nail right off the matrix, which is the part that you never want to damage."

What's the Process and Cost of a Russian Manicure?

Be prepared to sit for quite a while if you decide to get a russian manicure. "For just a basic russian manicure, you're not sitting for less than two hours," Gerstein says. If you add designs or additional nail art, you can expect that time to increase.

As for how much russian manicures cost, the price will vary depending on your location and the exact salon you go to, but Gerstein says that for her area in New York City, the manicures typically start at $80.

The Downsides of a Russian Manicure

While this nail look is picking up in popularity, it's also caused quite a bit of controversy in the nail community. That's because the extremely neat look that has become its signature is achieved by cutting past the cuticle area, which can lead to bleeding, pain, or (in worst case scenarios) serious infections if not done properly.

"The eponychium is what gets cut in a Russian manicure," says Gerstein. The eponychium is what "seals" the nail bed and protects it from bacterial infection. Cutting it incorrectly can expose the nail to bacteria and pathogens.

For this reason, Gerstein stresses going to a certified manicurist who only uses professional tools and follows strict protocols when it comes to cleanliness. "When someone is really trained and [has] the right tools that you can't [just] buy off of Amazon, you can achieve this look the proper way," says Gerstein.

Translation: Don't try this one at home.

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