What Is Co-Washing?
Can a Conditioner Really Clean Your Scalp?
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We know what you're thinking: isn't a conditioner that also cleans the scalp a contradiction? Shampoo is meant to clean the scalp, and conditioner is meant to replenish moisture. In fact, applying conditioner to the scalp is a big no-no in some hair circles. But among women with natural hair, co-washing (the process of cleaning the hair with conditioner instead of shampoo) is the norm. People can go weeks — even months — without using shampoo! Now, we know sulphates are bad because they strip and dehydrate your strands, but has this war against suds gone too far? We already know that the no-poo trend is bad for your hair health, so now we're cracking down on cleansing conditioners. Alas, we've got bad news: yes, co-washing does keep curly and coarse hair moisturised and frizz free, but every person (no matter their hair type) should still own shampoo.
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What is co-washing?
"Excessive shampooing can dehydrate the hair," said Morgan Willhite, Ouidad creative director and lead stylist. "Cleansing conditioners are designed to gently cleanse the scalp and hair. The combination of a mild cleanser and hydrating moisturisers help avoid stripping of one's natural oils."
You can use any conditioner to co-wash, but over the last decade, the trend has gone mainstream (remember those Wen infomercials featuring Alyssa Milano and Chaz Dean?). Especially within the last several years, big-name beauty brands like L'Oréal, Pantene, and Kérastase have brought co-washing to the high street and salons under the term "cleansing conditioner." People with thick, dry, colour-treated, curly, kinky, and afro hair types can all benefit from the extra moisture co-washing provides. "The benefits of co-washing include the reduction in dryness to the hair shaft, leaving the hair shinier and smoother-looking," said NYC dermatologist Rosemarie Ingleton. "It also doesn't strip colour-treated hair of its pigment."
Is a co-wash the same as a two-in-one shampoo and conditioner?
No. Those men's-aisle relics are still in the past where they belong. "Cleansing conditioners are a mild approach to cleaning the scalp and hair without the use of sulphates," said Willhite. "In the past, there was little awareness about sulphates, as most two-in-one products contained a high amount of sulphates. Two-in-one products were created for the ease of hair care, not health." The biggest complaint about current cleansing conditioners is the lack of suds. Many people subscribe to the belief that if it doesn't lather, it's not working.
Can a cleansing conditioner really clean your scalp?
There are cleaning agents in co-wash, just not the bubbling ones you're used to. "Many conditioners contain trace amounts of detergents (surfactants), which cleanse the hair shaft of dirt and leave the hair clean but moisturised," Dr. Ingleton explained. But no matter what, conditioner won't get your scalp as clean as classic shampoo will. Think of co-washing as more of a refreshing process. "If my clients are heavy gym-goers, this is a perfect daily routine," said Willhite. "It allows the user to work up a sweat without worrying about fragile hair drying out." To use, massage the co-wash into the scalp and roots, work it down to the ends, and rinse thoroughly.
Co-washing doesn't mean you can give up shampoo.
Conditioner is not (and never will be) a substitute for shampoo. You want to cleanse the scalp with a clarifying product every seven to 10 days. "Everyone needs to cleanse their scalp and hair for proper hygiene," said Willhite. "Cleansing with shampoo will reduce any excess buildup of oil that your scalp produces, or the buildup of hair products." For your weekly wash, use a sulphate-free shampoo or another natural alternative, like an apple cider vinegar rinse.
Co-washing isn't for everyone.
While women with wavy, curly, afro, or dry hair will love the moisture co-washing leaves behind, it ain't for everybody! "Women with fine, straight hair do not do as well with co-washing, as it can leave the hair heavily laden with moisturiser, which would weigh the hair down," explained Dr. Ingleton. "Also, anyone with an oily or scaly scalp (e.g., psoriasis, dermatitis) would not be a good candidate."
You can also co-wash too often. So going three weeks without shampoo can do more harm than good. "If hair is co-washed too often without an intervening shampoo treatment, the hair can get heavily laden with oils and look greasy," said Dr. Ingleton. "It will leave several layers of a coating on the hair strands."
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