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What's the Best Way to Minimise a Spot Overnight? We Asked a Dermatologist

01/06/2020 - 03:50 PM

Waking up to a giant, angry, red spot is the absolute worst way to start your day. While your acne might get better over time as you learn more about different skincare routines [1] and things that may cause irritation (like scented fabrics and greasy food), the odds of never waking up to a spot again are pretty slim. So, what can we do to minimise these little demons [2] overnight?

First, let's break down exactly what a spot is and how it can affect our face. dermatologist Caroline Chang, MD, FAAD [3], said that "the root cause of a spot is a blackhead." She further explained,"if a blackhead gets overfilled [4], it breaks from the inside and causes inflammation, which leads to a pink bump," hence, an inflamed papule. Before the spot regresses, it could turn into a larger, more painful bump. We could be stuck with this monster for up to two weeks.

"Benzoyl peroxide helps by destroying any bacteria on the skin surface, reduces inflammation, and helps to open up pores through exfoliation."

But how do we treat an inflamed papule? Dr. Chang recommends using salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide [5]. "Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, which means it can get right into pores and help loosen up the clogged pore. Benzoyl peroxide helps by destroying any bacteria on the skin surface, reduces inflammation, and helps to open up pores through exfoliation." Benzoyl peroxide can sometimes be difficult to get hold of in the UK, particularly in a pimple crisis, however, it is now available at stores like Superdrug on the shelves [6]. A higher level of salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide might seem like a good idea, but Dr. Chang advises you'd be doing yourself a disservice. "Start with a low percentage, especially when spot treating. The last thing you want to do is draw more attention to your spot by causing a rash on top of it!"

When it comes to natural or botanical ingredients [7], she recommends to stay far away. "When you apply these ingredients to inflamed or broken skin, you have an increased risk of becoming sensitised to them, which means you'll develop an irritation or a rash when you are exposed to them again."

The same goes for picking at an inflamed papule on your skin. It might seem like an easy escape route, but Dr. Chang explained this is one of the worst things you could be doing to your face. Not only are you putting your skin at risk for an infection, but you could also be damaging the inflamed pore underneath. "When that pore's manipulated, it can tear further and cause an even bigger inflammatory response, which means your spot can get larger." Picking can also lead to scarring — which is a whole other issue [8].

If you're battling a spot that is refusing to back down, she recommends making an appointment with a GP — or dermatologist if you're able to — for an injection of cortisone [9] to help calm down the spot quickly. In the meantime, keep reading for eight overnight spot treatment products, including some top dermatologist favourites.

Additional reporting by Tori Crowther

ZitSticka Killa Acne Patches

In addition to the treatments recommended by Chang, cosmetic doctor and founder of Illuminate Skin Clinic [10], Dr. Sophie Shotter really likes, ZitSticka Killa Acne Patches [11] (£27). "They contain tiny microdarts which deliver ingredients including salicylic acid into the epicentre of early spots," she explained.

Mario Badescu Drying Lotion

The Mario Badescu Drying Lotion [12] (£13.50) has salicylic acid and sulphur. Dr. Chang recommends this product because while the salicylic acid is combating the pimple, sulphur will relieve surrounding skin and the calamine will reduce irritation.


Bioderma Sébium Global Intensive Purifying Care

Dr. Shotter also recommends Bioderma Sébium Global Intensive Purifying Care [13] (£15) for spot-prone skin. "It contains Bakuchiol to reduce sebum production, AHAs to help clear skin, and zinc to calm inflammation," she explains.

The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque

Dr. Chang explains that using The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque [14] (£9) is probably the most simple yet effective on the spot treatment you can use to fight pimples. There's no gimmicks or red flags with this product. Once applied, it'll get right to work. Plus, it has a very low dose of salicylic acid so you don't have to worry about a rash!

Origins Super Spot Remover Acne Treatment Gel

Dr. Chang's biggest tip when searching for products was finding an overnight gel salicylic acid which is exactly what this product is. Origins Super Spot Remover Acne Treatment Gel [15] (£16) has a very low percent of salicylic acid (1.5 percent) and is treatable for normal, dry, and oily skin types. This gel will help fight the pimple and reduce redness.

Paula's Choice Clear Regular Strength Skin Clearing Treatment

Use Paula's Choice Clear Regular Strength Skin Clearing Treatment [16] (£37) to help fight pimples and prevent future ones from popping up. This particular formula includes just under three percent of benzoyl peroxide, making it strong enough to minimise (and kill) pimples but not too strong where you'll wake up with a rash or irritation. This product also works great under makeup!

Clean & Clear Advantage Gel

With two percent of salicylic acid and an oil-free formula, the Clean & Clear Advantage Gel [17] (£4) is an easy and super affordable option for those looking to help clear up their skin. This treatment can also be used on black heads and white head. Pick up one at your nearest drug store and get ready to go out and have some fun, this treatment will take care of the rest!

Eve Lom Dynaspot

Eve Lom Dynaspot [18] (£22) will help accelerate the elimination of a pimple while also soothing redness or inflammation. The great thing about this product is it won't make your skin feel cracked or dry and you can wear it under makeup!



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