Riccardo Tisci lulled us into a false sense of security with his Burberry debut. As the first looks took to the runway, it seemed like the designer — who has a reputation for being edgier than many of his contemporaries — was sticking to the heritage of the British brand. There were ladylike daytime looks in every shade of beige and tan, including pussy-bow blouses and neat pleated skirts. The brand's classic trench was updated with wide belts, or chain trims, and the classic Burberry check got turned into more of a stripe with the removal of a few weaves. But though there were modern touches and new twists on classics, it all felt very safe, and not what we expected from someone whose work has frequently been referred to as "dark" and "gothic".

But then those early, safe looks segued into a second wave of black, white and red pieces that made much more of a statement about where the designer sees this label going, and exactly how far he's willing to push it. There was a cow print skirt with cutout thigh straps, teamed with a t-shirt emblazoned with "Cow". Another tee read "Why did they kill Bambi?". Almost all the menswear came with tiny slogans and messages patched onto shoulders, sleeves, and cuffs. Models strutted in bead-trimmed minidresses and louche silk slips with spots, teamed with chunky flat shoes with rubber soles that looked like they'd spread over time. Along with those shoes, as well as all the bags, scarves, umbrellas, and hats that are part and parcel of a Burberry show, perhaps the most notable accessories was the red British passport, worn proudly around the necks of both male and female models — a cheeky nod to Brexit's proposed move back to blue, or just a reminder of where this show was taking place?

Rest assured, there was a lot to take in here, with a seeming conveyor belt of looks that never seemed to end. Take a look at all 130+ looks now.