Mary Katrantzou Turns Her Back on Her Signature Prints
If you'd have shown us unlabelled pictures from today's Mary Katrantzou show and asked us to tell you which London-based designer delivered these looks, we never would have guessed. Michael van der Ham, perhaps. Maybe Christopher Kane. But not Katrantzou. Surprising us all, she almost entirely eschewed her usual graphic prints in favour of block colours, lace, and a collage-based, textural approach.
A Katrantzou show that opens with all-beige looks, without prints, may not be what we expected, but it shows a move into new territory for the designer, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Being a one-trick pony doesn't often result in a lasting career, and the fact Katrantzou is experimenting with new styles shows a focus on the future of her brand. As the show continued, we did start to see the intricacies we've come to expect, but the emphasis was on texture rather than on print, with metallic trimmed lace, laser-cut pale leathers, and later a spiderweb of black lacy detail coiling around paler colours on tops, dresses, and skirts. It was new, it was different, and it threw us for a second. But we're beginning to come round!
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