Roksanda Ditches the Brights For a Darker Elegance For Autumn/Winter 2016
Roksanda Ilincic threw us something of a curveball with her Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. We're used to looking to the London-based designer for artful colourblocking and bold use of colour, but this season she muted her colour scheme and opted for something no less striking but a lot more subdued. Her usual poppy oranges became burnt umber, her violet toned down to a deep berry. The colourblocking was still there, on wide, vertical striped silk dresses and abstract printed knitted columns, but they weren't the core of the collection. Instead, we were treated to beautiful double-breasted coats, heavy capes, blouses topped with neck bows, and furry capelets and collars.
Then came the biggest surprise: a series of evening gowns that were crying out to be worn on the red carpet. A burgundy silk halter with knife-pleated skirt (complete with a flash of pale pink), a delicate lilac lace gown with a high neck and fluted sleeves, and a plunging navy number with a tiered skirt and ruffles at the neck and sleeves that looked like they were made for an ethereal British ingénue like Keira Knightley or Carey Mulligan. With this show, Roksanda gave Erdem a run for his money when it came to dark, delicate glamour.