The fashion direction for Darren Star's "Emily in Paris [1]" season three [2] was inspired by Lily Collins [3]'s real-life decision to cut a fringe [4]. After seeing her new style, costume designer Marylin Fitoussi [5] found an entirely new crop of muses: Audrey Hepburn, Jane Birkin, Brigitte Bardot, Kate Moss [6], Anna Karina in classic Godard films, and the French New Wave, according to Netflix [7].
Fitoussi, who consulted with Patricia Field for seasons 1 and 2 [8], told POPSUGAR her overall aim was to soften Emily Cooper's style. She incorporated more subtle pastel tones as the French do, bidding farewell to Cooper's bright fuchsia fetish; introduced high-waisted trousers to her wardrobe as a nod to mentor Sylvie's (Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) confident Parisian style [9]; and swapped stilettos for chunky platforms. "Of course, we try to mix high brands with affordable brands, vintage pieces, and young French designers," she said. "I feel as if it's my duty in my work to use young designers."
Collins was an integral part of the costume conversation, bringing her own pieces onto set and voicing her opinions. "She might say, 'You know, Marylin, I think this print reminds me too much of season one.' And it is essential for me to listen to her, to understand this feeling, to assimilate it, and to make sure that I can also serenely present many more options to her," Fitoussi told Netflix. "My main interest is that she feels comfortable in her clothes . . . that they actually help in the construction of her character; that she has to act less, because the intention and mood is already visually noticeable on her through the costume."
Image Source: Netflix [10]
Another goal for Emily's style evolution this season? To propose a mirror effect between her own aesthetic and that of Sylvie's. "Emily has observed Sylvie's codes. She's spent two seasons watching her, thinking to herself, 'She's got style, she's got pizazz,'" Fitoussi said, continuing, "Sylvie knows how to raise a collar, how to put a coat on her shoulders. I listen, I look, I integrate. And in this season, Lily puts a coat on her shoulders and puts on high-waisted pants, which she's never had before. She still does not risk what we call a 'Sylvie,' being able to release a shoulder and pull up a coat and a shirt collar. But she'll get there."
Scroll to see more of Emily's looks from Seasons 1 through 3, as well as outfits from other characters on the show, including Camille (Camille Razat), Mindy (Ashley Park) [11], and Madeline (Kate Walsh [12]). Plus, shop our favourites.
Camille's Style in "Emily in Paris" Season 3
Fitoussi describes Camille (Camille Razat) as a minimalist who rarely wears bold colour or statement jewels as a nod to classic Parisian style. She does, however, have dramatic switch-ups in aesthetic, from girly sequinned minidresses to more boyish cuts, such as traditionally tailored pantsuits. "She reflects another kind of femininity that it's nice to have in the show," Fitoussi told POPSUGAR.
Madeline's Style in "Emily in Paris" Season 3
Fitoussi says Madeline (Kate Walsh [14]) takes a "bigger is better" approach to style, which is very much an American sensibility that Emily also projects. AZ Factory, Herve Leger, and vintage Mugler were some of the brands Fitoussi chose to build out Madeline's wardrobe this season.
"Since she's the only recurring American character we have . . . we decided to exaggerate aspects of the American aesthetic, to caricature them a little bit. It's always very good-natured and very good-spirited. We exaggerate a little on the size of the jewels, the excess of the jewels," Fitoussi told Netflix.
Sylvie and Madeline's Cadault Dress, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 2
Sylvie (Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu) and Madeline (Kate Walsh [15]) have a power clash this season, which culminates at Pierre Cadault's retrospective, where they both show up in the same dress, albeit accessorised differently. The look comes courtesy of designer Stéphane Rolland, who makes a cameo in the episode.
"I chose [the dress] because there is a very devilish side to Sylvie at the time," Fitoussi explained to Netflix. "I wanted it very minimalist; a black dress with an arch that was completely innovative in its construction. We had to make a double of this dress for Kate Walsh, who arrived a few days before the shoot, so we all crossed our fingers that it would be as beautiful on her body as it was on Philippine's physique, and it was." Walsh's look is further exaggerated with an Elsa Peretti snake necklace meant to feel a little tacky and poke fun at her American sense of style.
Étienne's Style in "Emily in Paris" Season 3
Mindy's fellow band member Étienne (Jin Xuan Mao) has a wardrobe full of pieces bought from luxury retailer and vintage sites for season three. In the first episode, Fitoussi reveals he wears items from Parisian shop Addicted, along with the above sheer Bershka leggings. She sourced plenty of Cavalli pieces for him throughout the rest of the season.
Mindy's Mugler Catsuit, "Emily in Paris" Season 3, Episode 3
Mindy's (Ashley Park) jumpsuit was bought from the Mugler fashion house [16] by the wardrobe department, meant to reflect her explosive joy when she sings Dua Lipa's "Don't Start Now" onstage. Many of Mindy's stage costumes, sourced from young designers that work in the drag scene, were a subtle salute to Lido cabaret, an establishment that recently closed in Paris.
Mugler Sheer Spiral Leggings
Mugler Sheer Spiral Leggings [17] ($521)
Camille's Balmain Graffiti Jacket, Emily in Paris Season 3, Episode 1
Balmain Graffiti-Print Aviator Leather Jacket
Balmain Graffiti-Print Aviator Leather Jacket [18] ($5,650)
Louis Vuitton Pre-Owned Petit Malle Leather Clutch Bag
Louis Vuitton Pre-Owned Petit Malle Leather Clutch Bag [19] ($3,343, originally $3,613)
Emily's Polka-Dot Jacket, Emily in Paris Season 3, Episode 3
MSGM Bomber
MSGM Bomber [20] ($218, originally $529)
Emily's Sequin Dress, Emily in Paris Season 3, Episode 3
RTA Short Dress
RTA Short Dress [21] ($127, originally $713)
Emily's Green Printed Jacket, Emily in Paris Season 3, Episode 4
Envii Lightweight Quilted Jacket in Patchwork Floral
Envii Lightweight Quilted Jacket in Patchwork Floral [22] ($167)
Uncommon James Sobro Lucite Hoops
Uncommon James Sobro Lucite Hoops [23] ($27, originally $54)
Emily's Gingham Bra, Emily in Paris Season 3, Episode 5
Freya Check In Underwire Sweetheart Top
Freya Check In Underwire Sweetheart Top [24] ($64)
Cinq à Sept Kenza Embellished Cropped Blazer
Cinq à Sept Kenza Embellished Cropped Blazer [25] ($645)
Emily's Gingham Set, Emily in Paris Season 3, Episode 5
Fashion Union Gingham Set
Fashion Union Gingham Crop Beach Top With Balloon Sleeves [26] ($36, originally $45) and Fashion Union Gingham Exclusive Midi Beach Skirt [27] ($39, originally $48)
Emily's Floral Outfit, Emily in Paris Season 3, Episode 9
Isabel Marant Dayden Top in Light Pink
Isabel Marant Dayden Top in Light Pink [28] ($481, originally $980)
Gucci Bamboo 1947 Small Top Handle Bag
Gucci Bamboo 1947 Small Top Handle Bag [29] ($6,340)
Christian Lacroix Silk Printed Scarf
Christian Lacroix Silk Printed Scarf [30] ($44, originally $55)
Camille's Balmain Jacket, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 1
Camille completed the look with Patou trousers, Zeus + Dione sunglasses, and Nodaleto boots.
Emily's Courreges Dress, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 2
Emily accessorised her vintage Courreges minidress with Valentino sunglasses and Seymoure gloves.
Emily's Magali Pascal Dress, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 2
Emily's high-low dress looked stylish paired with Terry de Havilland Disco platforms, a Carel scuba tote, Miu Miu sunglasses, and a Nach Bijoux necklace.
Camille's Valentino Blazer, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 2
Emily styled the white blazer as a dress with Roger Vivier embellished loafers, Valentino cat-eye sunglasses, and a Patou wicker bag.
Mindy's Yellow Ruffle Top, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 2
Mindy coordinated her MSGM crop top with MSGM tweed fringe shorts, a Maison Michel Paris hat, Terry de Havilland rose gold platforms, and a Roger Vivier raffia bag.
Camille's Hat, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 2
The Maison Michel Paris hat, equipped with a black chain around half the rim of the fedora, was styled with a bright orange blazer.
Emily's Mary Katrantzou Dress, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 4
Emily's Mary Katrantzou Rodrizo bird dress was styled with a printed Vassilis Zoulias jacket, Maison Skorpios leather boots, and a checkered bucket hat.
Emily's Vassilis Zoulias Dress, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 5
Emily wore this memorable mixed-print dress with a blue Moynat Paris leather bag.
Mindy's PrettyLittleThing Set, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 6
The affordable acid-wash tie-dye set was styled with Terry de Havilland platforms and a graphic print envelope clutch.
Julien's Pokemon Pants, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 6
Julien paired his vintage denim from Levi's with a bright neon t-shirt and an orange jacket.
Emily's Pink Dress, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 6
Emily wore her hair up to show off the backless cut on her fuchsia Vassilis Zoulias dress.
Emily's Pink Balmain Skirt, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 7
The tweed miniskirt, finished with gold buttons down the front, was styled with a hot pink cold-shoulder top and Mark Cross 1845 mini leather trunk bag.
Emily's Yellow Self-Portrait Dress, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 8
Emily wore this strapless cotton dress with delicate Tana Chung jewels.
Emily's Zara Vest, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 9
Emily wore the Zara vest unbuttoned to reveal her Maje bow sweater, Valentino logo belt, and Miu Miu houndstooth skirt. The look was further accessorised with a chunky pearl choker and Roger Vivier mini heart wallet.
Emily's Balmain Dress, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 9
Emily's two-tone Balmain dress was a statement in and of itself, accessorised minimally with delicate jewellery.
Emily's Yellow Prada Bag, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 9
Emily wore a vintage Courreges checked jacket, highlighting the yellow shade with her Prada Cleo bag, wool fedora, and Seymoure leather gloves.
Emily's Rianna + Nina Jacket, Emily in Paris Season 2, Episode 10
The bright graphic print jacket was accessorised with Christian Louboutin's pink Marie Jane ruffle tulle bag and Gianvito Rossi turquoise ankle tie sandals.
Emily's Alice + Olivia Blouse, Emily in Paris Season 1, Episode 1
Emily confirms her love for print mixing in this Alice + Olivia blouse worn over a Re/Done henley cropped tank and finished with Ronny Kobo's snakeskin print skirt. Accessories include Christian Louboutin's multicolor Gorgona booties and an ivory Aldo purse.
Emily's Ganni Yellow Skirt Set, Emily in Paris Season 1, Episode 1
The Ganni separates are cinched with a Rag & Bone belt and coordinated with a Patricia Field bag, Elie Saab sandals, and a Tana Chung rose gold necklace.
Emily's Tulle Dress, Emily in Paris Season 1, Episode 2
Emily's Alexandre Vauthier strapless tulle dress is cinched with a vintage Chanel belt.
Emily's Green Chanel Jacket, Emily in Paris Season 1, Episode 5
Emily has a high-low moment in Chanel, styling this Resort 2020 jacket over a Brandy Melville plaid skirt. The look is finished with a Staud Bissett bag, Kangol bucket hat, Christian Louboutin So Kate collage booties, and Chanel logo stud earrings.
Emily's Christian Siriano Dress, Emily in Paris Season 1, Episode 6
Emily's off-the-shoulder Christian Louboutin dress has a subtle chevron print and was styled with Cosmoparis embellished pumps.
Emily's White Dress, Emily in Paris Season 1, Episode 9
Emily's white one-shoulder cocktail dress, with its asymmetrical design, was a piece from Stephane Rolland Couture.
Emily's Off-White Puffer, Emily in Paris Season 1, Episode 10
Emily styles her floral Off-White puffer jacket and dress with a pink beret, as one does.