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Why You May Not See as Many Fashion Designers Participating in NYFW This Season

29/01/2021 - 08:16 PM

As the official chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Tom Ford has announced the "American Collections Calendar," [1] which will allow for a more flexible show schedule, so designers can reveal their new lines at any time — specifically, on the CFDA's virtual platform Runway360 [2]. The "American Collections Calendar" will be released twice a year, and you'll see brands on the list under release dates that do not fall within February's pre-determined New York Fashion Week [3] (February 14-17). Many fashion forces such as Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Tory Burch, and Ralph Lauren have already chosen to show later in the season. But that's not to say Fashion Week, which is run by entertainment brand IMG separately, is not important.

"The heart of the 'American Collections Calendar' will always be New York Fashion Week. This is not about dismissing or abandoning NYFW."

"The 'American Collections Calendar' is really going to bring all the American shows and presentations together in that calendar. The heart of the 'American Collections Calendar' will always be New York Fashion Week. This is not about dismissing or abandoning NYFW. NYFW is the heart, it's the soul, it's the foundation of this new modern way of thinking which is really reflective of how the business is operating today," Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, told WWD. He confirmed the CFDA conducted a study several years ago on the future of Fashion Week, in which it was determined that fashion designers should debut collections whenever is best for the brand, from a business perspective. While the designers showing Feb. 14-17 have not yet been revealed, watch this space for the official release of the "American Collections Calendar" next week, which Ford and Kolb promise will still include spots for emerging talent. So yes; not to worry — New York Fashion Week is definitely still a thing.

Will Runway Shows Still Exist?

Yes. Once things go back to normal, the CFDA will encourage American brands to show during New York Fashion Week. In February 2021, the CFDA expects to have the same amount of brands participating in Runway360's virtual program as last season, when 82 brands were involved. "We're going to have a very fleshed-out schedule which we'll be able to share early next week. You'll see some brands returning that haven't been on a calendar for a while, you'll see some new brands, you'll see the continued engagement of more diversity. What's so powerful about Runway360 is open access, we're supporting emerging talent, it has global reach, and it's flexible. You can be a brand that has a budget and makes a movie, or you can get a studio and livestream with no audience, and you can be a brand that asks your friend to come over to your apartment, put them in your clothes and ask a neighbour to shoot a look book," Kolb said.


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