POPSUGAR UK

Mia Vesper, Victor Glemaud, and Sergio Hudson Tell Us the Inspiration Behind Their Fashion Week Shows

25/10/2022 - 06:40 PM

For fashion lovers, one of the most exciting and long awaited times of the year happens every fall: Fashion Month [1]. Eye-catching street style is everywhere. Celebrities are showing off their finest couture. This is when you get legendary wardrobe moments from the likes of Lori Harvey [2], Emily Ratajkowski, and new parents Rihanna and A$AP Rocky [3]. The month kicked off with New York Fashion Week, which was only the second in-person spring/summer season since before the coronavirus pandemic. This season's designers and street style stars delivered serious sartorial inspiration, demonstrating a newfound sense of excitement for the fashion season and dressing up to go out. The many runways were filled with creative interpretations of colour and texture, like at Simon Miller's presentation, which boasted cutout dresses with an unexpected take on fringe.

During the spring/summer 2023 season, designers pushed the boundaries with playful presentations and lush locations. Take, for instance, Collina Strada, who invited attendees to a vibrant, plant-filled escape at the Brooklyn Greenway, where she went on to showcase a butterfly-inspired collection. There was also Love Shack Fancy, which created a lively, outdoor party and presented a collection full of tulle, pink hues, and ball gowns at the Cooper Hewitt Museum. One factor that switched up this season? Established designers like Marni and Fendi, who usually show in Milan Fashion Week, decided to venture across the Atlantic to show in New York City instead.

From household names like Kate Spade and Christian Siriano [4] to revolutionary designers like Fe Noel and Victor Glemaud, keep scrolling for all the designers who brought to life their creative visions for warm weather dressing in the new year.

Black Boy Knits Spring/Summer 2023

Jacques Agbobly, CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist and founder of Black Boy Knits, took viewers on a nostalgic journey to his childhood in Togo, West Africa through his spring/summer 2023 collection entitled "Togo Vivina." Inspired by his childhood memories and humble upbringing, the emerging designer featured handmade pieces including the brand's signature knitwear made of merino wool and structural denim embellished with beads.

"I want people to start looking at clothes differently," Agbobly says. "I want them to be encouraged to show up fully as themselves — have the clothes elevate what was already there or bring out what was already there. I want people to feel love and feel like they're wearing a hug."

Christian Siriano Spring/Summer 2023

An intimate showing [5] at the Elizabeth Taylor Townhouse, Christian Siriano's latest collection featured exciting shapes and captivating silhouettes, drawing inspiration from the glamorous old Hollywood style icons like Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor.

"I wanted to do something that our customer will be excited about right now as well as stand the test of time," Siriano says. "So my hope is that the collection transports you to a different time and helps you channel your inner style icon."

Kate Spade New York Spring/Summer 2023

Marking the debut of Tom Mora and Jennifer Lyu as the new head product designers for Kate Spade, the presentation was an ode to the visual beauty of the spring season. It was also a tribute to the brand's upcoming 30th anniversary in 2023. Including eccentric stripes and rain motifs in 100% recycled materials, the collection created a playful experience at its presentation, where stars like Regina Hall and Rebel Wilson were in attendance.

Bronx and Banco Spring/Summer 2023

Natalie De-Banco presented another fabulous runway show at the Hudson River Greenway that was entitled, "Burnt by the Sun." De-Banco, an advocate for nature preservation and animal welfare, drew inspiration from wildlife safaris for this latest collection. The pieces featured bright colours and silhouettes comprised of nontraditional materials like handmade fabrics and recycled metals, as well as menswear for the first time ever.

Fe Noel Spring/Summer 2023

After recently losing a loved one, designer Felisha Noel's channelled her grief into the memorable "Wish You Were Here" collection that explored the journey of a woman's emotion. The stunning presentation featured floor-sweeping silhouettes and vibrant colorways. The show closed with a jaw-dropping finale dress decorated with money disguised as ruffles, marking Noel's partnership with TIAA [6]. The design aimed to bring awareness to and close the 30% gap in women and men's retirement income.

alice + olivia Spring/Summer 2023

alice + olivia's Stacey Bendet created an interactive getaway called "House of Alice + Olivia" to showcase her spring/summer 2023 designs. In the wonderland fantasy home, you would journey from one boldly decorated room to another with equally vibrant designs to match. From denim power suits embellished with bedazzled fringes to colour blocking rooms featuring dramatic, colourful gowns, the presentation's foundation is based on Bendet's goal to make women's pieces more fun and lively.

Peter Do Spring/Summer 2023

For the first time ever, Peter Do introduced his highly anticipated men's line in this season's "TIME" collection, using K-pop stars as models in partnership with Korea's largest entertainment company, SM Entertainment. Motivated by the future of K-pop and fashion, the presentation featured silhouettes like sleek tailoring on the skirts and blazers, as well as men's looks that consist of languid silk blouses and classic denim.

Pamella Roland Spring/Summer 2023

In celebration of the brand's 20th anniversary and drawing inspiration from her beginnings in NYC, the Pamella Roland spring/summer 2023 collection was bursting with bold colours and signature ombrés in hues of emerald, cobalt, amethyst and fuchsia. Luxurious fabrics and intricate hand embroideries also marked this latest lineup from Roland. From dramatic capes and sleeves to signature ballgowns, the collection embodied the brand's command of timeless elegance.

Retrofête Spring/Summer 2023

Ohad Seroya and Aviad Klin of Retrofête presented an array of glamorous and statement-making pieces in their latest collection. The many daring silhouettes have elements like hip-high slits and striking textures like sequins and feathers. In line with its well-established party aesthetic and influenced by Seroya's jet-setting travels, the collection is ideal for anyone who's confident, fashion-forward, and ready to have a fun, memorable time.

Zimmermann Spring/Summer 2023

The Sydney-based label made its Paris Fashion Week debut with a host of printed looks that incorporated a mix of textures, from sleek metallics to lightweight silk. Titled "Wonderland," the collection is partly an homage to where the brand's founder, Nicky Zimmermann, grew up in Sydney, where there was once an old rollercoaster in the early 1900s. Zimmermann referenced archival photos as part of her design process.


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