"Emily in Paris"'s Lucas Bravo Just Made His Runway Debut in Paris

From the sharp-shouldered suits cinched at the waist to the draped, sheer shirts wrapped around the bodice, Louis-Gabriel Nouchi challenged gender norms for a collection that embraced fluidity. He also made headlines for the casting alone, choosing men of varying sizes and shapes and enlisting models with body hair and full thighs — a rarity on the runway. His catwalk welcomed famous faces as well, with "Emily in Paris"'s Lucas Bravo, "The White Lotus"'s Stefano Gianino, and "Fire Island"'s Zane Phillips hitting the runway in "American Psycho"-inspired designs.

The '70s are alive and well in Fendi's Autumn 2023 show, with looks that include fringe blanket coats, one shoulder tops, leather and shearling jackets, and more. The palette was quite neutral, mainly crafted of greys and browns, though a single hue was peppered throughout: lavender. The soft, pastel tone covered everything from leather pants to tunic sweaters, oversized scarves to a model's own hair.

This season's Prada collection had a theme: "Let's Talk About Clothes," with looks that seemed to walk the viewer through a "greatest hits" list of fall outerwear essentials. There were blazers, toggle coats, bomber jackets, and two-button midis. Some of the earlier looks fell under the traditional menswear umbrella, with traditional black and grey suiting filling the runway. But many outfits also skewed gender-inclusive, with colourful blazers, mohair cardigans in pastel hues, and everything from tank tops to dresses following suit.

Givenchy's Fall collection is a lesson in '90s grunge, layering overcoats with turtleneck knits; shorts over slim pants; and cropped tops with longer tunics paired underneath. All the throwback fixtures were in perfect place, including wool plaid, distressed hoodies, and camouflage prints.

Though Alessandro Michele was one of the first mainstream designers to truly embrace gender-inclusive style, following his departure back in November, Gucci seemed to bend back in the opposite direction. And, while some looks included wide leg tweed pants, one-shoulder tanks, and tailored skirts for men, there was also a slew of tailored suiting, oversized coats, and puffer vests.