Anya Taylor-Joy is captivating as chess prodigy Beth Harmon [1] in Netflix's The Queen's Gambit [2], which takes place in the '50s and '60s and is an adaptation of Walter Tevis's 1983 novel [3] of the same name. The costumes she wears throughout the seven-episode series, vivid and striking as those we admired in Mad Men [4], cannot be searched or shopped for.
"All of Beth's wardrobe was made in our own tailor's workshop that stocks costumes exclusively for movies and TV shows," French costume designer Gabriele Binder, who styled the characters, told POPSUGAR. Even though Gabriele says she shopped a lot of vintage for the show, the appeal of these looks is that they are one-of-a-kind, and inspired by major '60s style icons like Audrey Hepburn and Edie Sedgwick, who wore their clothing in very much the same way that Beth does. Beth is self-confident, free-spirited, and she loves fashion, as she admits during a gathering at chess pro Benny Watts's place in New York. (Benny is played by Thomas Brodie-Sangster [5], and also has his own original sense of '60s style crafted carefully by Binder.)
If you've already watched the show, chances are you're hung up on certain looks — the gingham cutout swimsuit Beth wears in Mexico City, which, as it turns out, was chosen for its subtle nod to a chess board, or the winged, Sedgwick-esque eyeliner [6] — and we had to ask Binder about them all. If you haven't watched The Queen's Gambit yet, you're in for a mesmerising treat — and the fashion can be appreciated again and again in Netflix's new virtual costume exhibit [7], too. When you scroll, you'll find out which pieces from Beth's wardrobe Taylor-Joy took home from set, her favourite costume to wear, and the style icons Binder and her team studied to dream up the fashion moments that came to life brilliantly on the show.
Beth Harmon's Early Style
"As Beth matures, her style changes with new experiences and places she travels to. Her early style is influenced by Jean Seberg, Audrey Hepburn, and Natalie Wood, among others."
Beth Harmon's Style in New York
"Beth's style in New York is influenced by the New York music scene and the Andy Warhol factory. We took influence from Edie Sedgwick, because Warhol adored her freedom in style."
Beth Harmon's Style in Paris
"Beth's looks grow more elegant in Paris and Moscow, where we took influence from the French New Wave. We looked at Romy Schneider and Juliette Gréco, and movies like Contempt and Breathless. If you watch them now, they still have something very modern and inspirational about them, style wise."
Anya Taylor-Joy's Favourite Beth Costume
"Anya Taylor-Joy and I had a lot of costumes that we both really loved because they made her feel like Beth Harmon. But I think she really loved the yellow look she wore in Mexico City."
What Anya Taylor-Joy Took Home From Set
"While I don't remember everything she took, Anya definitely took a lot of the comfier pieces that were created for her, like slacks and cardigans."
Beth Harmon's Gingham Swimsuit
"The gingham swimsuit Beth wears was chosen because, in a very cool way, it refers to the game of chess. It is sexy without showing off, and it speaks to Beth's self-confidence."
Benny Watts's Style
"Benny (played by Thomas Brodie-Sangster) was our favourite guy to style. His look was inspired by the music and art scene from that time. We looked at Lou Reed and Joe Dallesandro, who were also part of the Andy Warhol party scene, but also Keith Richards from the Rolling Stones. Last but not least, we looked at Thomas's own appearance in Godless (2017), because we thought we could do a kind of cool homage to his Western style."
See More Style Moments From The Queen's Gambit
