Wedding Dress Alteration Tips According to Experts

Timing Is Everything

It's important to ensure you leave enough time to get all your alterations complete, but equally, don't get ahead of yourself. "As a rule of thumb, we recommend starting bridal alterations three months before the wedding," says Martina Spence from Bride & Alter. "Body shapes change without us noticing and if dresses are altered too early, more alterations might be needed before the wedding date."

You'll probably have three fittings – one as an initial consultation, one to do major adjustments, and another very close to your wedding day for any last-minute adjustments. Make sure you plan for them in the run up to the big day.

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Consider a Pre-Buy Consultation

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Although it can be fun, for most brides trying on wedding dresses is a daunting experience – especially if you're not used to dressing up. It's sometimes the case that a dress you love won't quite work with your body shape, so it's worth getting a professional opinion (and one that differs from the salesperson who is likely on commission). Design & Alter offers free pre-buy consultations for brides who are unsure what will work for them. If you're nervous about putting down the cash, consider this option.

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Consider Your Shape

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Let's say this now: there is absolutely no need to lose weight before your wedding. It is your body, your wedding day, and entirely your choice. But you do have to consider your shape when you're dress hunting, and when the tailoring process begins — that means being as certain as possible about the size and shape you'll be on the day itself. I knew that I was taking a risk when I bought a dress that was slightly too small for me. Even though my dress was altered to fit my shape instead of the other way around, I remained nervous about it through the whole process, right up until the morning of my wedding day.

Wedding dresses may have some extra fabric in the seams that will make them easier to let out, but don't rely on this when you buy. If there's little to no excess fabric in the seams, the alteration won't be easy and may actually be impossible. I was accepting of the fact that I might have needed a corset put in the back of my dress.

Don't forget that the more your shape changes, the more you'll have to fork out to get your dress fixed. "You don't want to lose a lot of weight once the alteration work has started, as the same work will have to be done again, which will be more expensive," says my wedding dress tailor, Richard Thompson at Exclusive Alterations.

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Don’t Be Swayed by Sample Sales

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The temptation to buy a dress a few sizes too big in a sample sale is understandable, but it's not just a case of taking it in – you might not be able to keep the shape of the dress that you love, especially around the bust. "There is a lot that a creative tailor or seamstress can do with alterations to make a dress fit, but it all depends on the design and cut of the dress," says Richard. "With some strapless and sweetheart necklines, a dress three sizes bigger could be very difficult and perhaps impossible to alter and keep the bust shape the same."

Marina agrees that brides should proceed with caution when buying in sample sales. "Alteration costs can be much higher for sample dresses." It's possible that you could find that the cost of alterations wipes out any savings you made buying in the sale vs getting your actual size.

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Figure Out What You Don’t Want

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Although my dress was full-skirted with a train, I really wasn't keen on the idea of an elaborate bustle. I actually didn't want one at all and had to be talked into it (of course, my tailor and bridesmaid were right – the dress would have been trampled on all night long if I'd gone without). My dress was dramatic, but it was a simple shape and I didn't want to complicate it. Sometimes, even if you're not sure what you do want, it can be helpful to be very clear about what you don't.

French and Austrian bustles are fancy and they'll gather the skirt of your dress (they look beautiful on lace), whereas a ballroom bustle will draw the layers of the dress in to points on your waist so it's not as easy to detect. Of course, the more elaborate your bustle, the more expensive it will be, so make sure you're factoring in any extra costs.

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Don’t Forget Your Accessories

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Don't forget about the rest of your outfit, especially in Winter if you're planning on wearing a coat or cape. "It's really important to bring the shoes that you're going to wear on the day, in order to make sure the length of the dress is altered perfectly," advises Richard. "If you can wear a bra with your dress, it's always a good idea to bring one that fits you well. We can then do the fitting based on it or that shape." You may also be able to get bra-style cups sewn into the front of your gown, but these provide minimal support compared to a bra.

If you haven't got around to buying your wedding shoes yet, you probably know what height you're likely to wear, so take along a pair that are the same heel height. If you're having your hair half-up half down, do a lazy version before your appointment so you can see where your hair sits on your neckline. And if you're wearing a specific necklace or veil, that can be useful, too. Think of it as a mini dress rehearsal for the big day.

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Don’t Get Carried Away

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"Wedding dress shopping can become a social event when you go with a group of friends. This is fun, but can make it more difficult to make a good decision," advises Martina. You need to think seriously about fit and cost, and it can be difficult to keep a cool head with so much excitement (and Champagne). The whole experience should be fun, but if you're even a little bit unsure, don't say "yes" immediately. A budget-busting dress could end up costing you more than you'd anticipated once you add in alteration costs. Similarly, don't bring all of your bridesmaids to your fitting appointments. You know what they say about too many cooks.

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Don’t Underestimate the Cost

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It's a good idea to budget a couple of hundred pounds for basic alterations – turning up the hem, a small amount of adjusting, and a simple bustle. Everything on top of that is serious work and it doesn't come cheap and nor should it – tailoring is a craft and wedding dresses are supposed to be ornate and incredibly structured, it's what makes them special, after all.

"Brides often underestimate the cost of restyling a dress. Lowering the back and redesigning the bodice of their dress," says Richard. "There's also a huge amount of work involved in altering a heavily beaded or appliquéd dress." So consider this when you're trying on. If you're looking for a dress with delicate beading and lace, make sure you buy one that really fits you, otherwise you're going to see that final bill rocket.

It can be easy to see the cost of wedding dress alterations as just another thing on the wedding budget, but it's a huge part of your comfort on the big day and that's really important. If you find the right tailor, they can transform how you feel about your dress. If you buy off the rack or at a sample sale, you might not get that "wow moment" until the dress alterations are finished. Mine came during my second fitting, when I could walk around in my dress without treading on it and finally picture how it was going to look on the day as it swooshed down the aisle. And swoosh it did. The work and time was worth every penny.

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