Can Dolce & Gabbana and Alexander Wang Be Cancelled?
Can Fashion Brands Actually Be Cancelled?
Fashionista editor-in-chief Tyler McCall, who reported on Dolce & Gabbana's problematic past on her own site last year, says the media outlet decides how to handle controversial brands on a case-to-case basis. While both reprehensible, Wang's sexual assault allegations may be handled differently than Dolce & Gabbana's offensive comments. "It's definitely a different calculation that varies from incident to incident," she says, "because every situation has its own circumstances to consider."
Generally, editors will reassess how they approach coverage. "Whenever an individual or a brand is involved with some kind of controversy, we try to be significantly more thoughtful in how or if we cover them. We take into consideration what happened, who was harmed, and who might continue to be harmed by any sort of 'fluffy' coverage of that person or brand," she says, defining fluffy coverage as market stories or articles about celebrity outfits. Like Eng, she leaves the door open for redemption. "We also take into consideration what steps have been taken, if any, to make amends," she says.
"It's important to continue to take stakeholders in the industry to task."
Smith and Edmiston are adamantly against cancellation and choose instead to educate designers and brand reps. "We don't believe in the group mass cancelling of anyone or anything," Edmiston says. "We do take the time where we will not support your business if you are not in a good place, but we also take the time to sit with you and your PR director and outline the issues and concerns. We like to think of ourselves as willing to have that conversation in a constructive way, and we invite everyone: clients, publicists, brands, and whoever wants to have that conversation with us."
Smith references Gucci as proof that open dialogue, rather than cancellation, can aid in a brand's rehabilitation. "I found a lot of the things that were happening at Gucci problematic," he says, referencing the brand's turban that appropriated culture of the Sikh religion on the runway and its autumn/winter 2018 sweater that resembled blackface.
"Gucci listened to us and they heard us, putting initiatives in place to support young talent, academics, and designers. If you do your research on Gucci, they're silently doing the work."
Smith cites the inclusive red carpet at the brand's Love Parade runway show as an example. "[The house invited] Serena Williams, Billie Eilish, Paul Mescal, and then you had the whole crew from Harlem with Dapper Dan. This is what fashion should be."
While Gucci was never successfully "cancelled" per sé, they were held responsible for their actions. And with open conversation and a genuine commitment to inclusivity, the brand was able to forge a new path.
Cancellation may not be the answer — or even a successful strategy — but accountability is critical if we want the fashion industry to foster a safer, more ethical business culture. "It's important to continue to take stakeholders in the industry to task," says McCall. "That's the only way the industry can improve."