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There are a few best practices for pre- and post-protective style. Before installation, the key is to always make sure that the scalp and hair are clean and properly moisturised. Then, make sure the style itself is not too tight. (Pro tip for how you can tell: the installation is painful.) Then, after the installation process, infusing the hair and scalp with moisture becomes non-negotiable. Dr. Williams uses a hydration mist on her clients and "focuses on the ends of the hair and the scalp."
Protective styles are not only defined by the looks featuring extensions or added hair, but rather "styles that you can wear for two weeks or more," Dr. Williams said. While adding hair to a hairstyle does extend the longevity of the style, protective styles also include "two-strand twists and cornrows, or braids created without extensions."
How long a protective style should last depends on the style. "Braids and twists can be worn from four to eight weeks with a touch-up around the hairline. Weaves can last four to six weeks and cornrows can last two to four weeks," Dr. Williams said. The Goddess loc technique that she created lasts the longest, falling anywhere from 12 to 16 weeks.
The only protective hairstyle that can be worn daily regardless of time frame are wigs, but "the hair underneath should be detangled, shampooed, and conditioned every one to two weeks," Dr. Williams said.